Building Homes or Extensions/Modifying Trusses

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Roof Connection & Truss
Roof Connection & Trus  
QUESTION: Hi Bruce, me again =o)
I've drawn a picture, not to scale, and attached it.  Hopefully this will help.
Note: This is the first time I've used the scan feature on my new printer.  Let me know how it looks.
Thanks so very much for sticking with me!
Susan

truss alter
truss alter  
ANSWER: Hi again Susan, okay I have a better clue as to what you want to do.  Yes you can probably cut this area back if you provide a connection from the bottom chord to the top chord.  You do this by adding a vertical leg directly from the top of the bottom chord to the bottom of the top chord.   Then you add a cleat on each side to lock to the support leg in place.  At this point you can install a header underneath this new leg or you can support the trusses underneath and add the head to the face of the altered trusses and support them on joist hangers.  See attached drawing.  This is just a suggestion, I am not an engineer.  Alter these trusses at your own risk or seek professional engineering counsel for the finished design.  Sincerely bruce e johnson

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Roof Truss modification
Roof Truss modificatio  
QUESTION: Bruce:
Now we're talking! =o)  I've attached another drawing to show you what I've done so far and what I plan to do.

 Basically: I placed a 2x6 perpendicular to 8 bottom chords, just behind where I want to cut 2 bottom chords, then; I placed a 2x6 vertical support on top of the added, perpendicular 2x6 and under each rafter on all 8 rafters. I have a table mider saw, so the angle wasn't a problem. (Probably over-kill to do all 8, but it's in my comfort zone.)
Once I cut the 2 trusses, which I haven't done yet, I plan to add a header spanning the new opening, across the 2 cut trusses and attaching to the uncut trusses on either end of the cut-out.
You should have seen me getting a 2x6x16 into the attic and in place all by myself!  =o)

I realize this isn't like the suggestion you made, but will this work?  It seems to me the 2x6 vertical supports under each rafter provide better support for the two cut rafters and, the 2x6 perpendicular to the bottom chords provides better support for the 2 cut bottom chords?  It sure looks good and sturdy!

I do definitely realize I'm taking a chance, that you're not an engineer and, I'm doing all this at my own risk.  But your advice is most helpful and sincerely appreciated!
Susan

Answer
Hi again Susan, it looks like you did everything I mentioned except add the side cleats on each side of your 2x6 vertical studs.  You can probably forego these cleats if you use a good gang nail plate on both sides to lock the vertical stud in place.  Also I would double up the 2x6 header for the two trusses to bear on making it a 4x6.  For a six foot bearing span a 4x6 or double 2x6 is really necessary.  I hope this information helps feel free to write again regarding this or other matters, sincerely bruce e johnson..bejohnsonconsulting.com

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Bruce E. Johnson

Expertise

I can answer any construction related question in regards to carpentry, concrete, drywall, masonry, structural elements of any type of building, residential or commercial. Interior or exterior.

Experience

Custom Commercial and residential buildings. Churches, theaters, schools and auditoriums. Most recently I am working with the Catholic Church on several design build committees. I have a website related to scheduling and project supervision. Although my expertise is more related to multimillion dollar commercial, educational and theatrical projects my generous credentials in residential and remodelling construction make me a viable source of information regarding all forms of building questions.

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