Expert: Bruce E. Johnson - 11/2/2010

Question
Hi, my wife and I would like to open up a wall that seperates our dining room from a stairwell that connects to the great room.  This is on the main level of a 1 story ranch.

This is a 9 foot tall wall, and the total length of the wall is approx 9 feet.  We want to open approx 5-6 feet width of it, and approx 4 length of it, creating an arched open...leaving approx 2 ft at the top, and 3 feet at the bottom.  

There are no HVAC, plumbing, etc in the wall, except there is one electrical outlet at the bottom that I feel confident I can reroute afterwards.  

Im thinking that I will construct a 2x12 "header sandwich" (2-2x12s with 1/2 plywood between) to replace the 4 studs that will need to be cut for the opening.  The studs are 16 inches on center.

The problem I am running into is this..  

Q: How do I support the mid section while installing the header?  

One side is a stairwell, so I cant build a support wall on both sides.  

Q: Is the width span small enought that I can cut the studs, create the header framing, insert the header, create the sill, without bracing?  

I haven't verified that the wall is load bearing, but just assumed it was for safety purposes.  Are stairwell walls usually load bearing?  

Thanks!  

Answer
Hi Spartan, most stairways require their main support in the stair framing itself.  In other words the stringers that comprise the stairs are self supporting 2x12s notched for the steps and bearing at the top of the stairwell and at the bottom of the stairwell.  The stairwell landing at the bottom is usually a small floor system with its own floor joists.  If the wall you are cutting into is under the stairs themselves then it may be load bearing because in some instances the stair stringers are supported midway for various reasons the main one being to take the bounce out of long stringers or to use shorter stringers and break them over a wall or header.  If the wall you want to cut into is along side the staircase and runs all the way to the ceiling then it may support some weight from the upper level floor system.  But in all the above scenarios the load being supported by these walls is probably minimal enough that you can remove and replace studs without the house coming down so to speak.  

I would open up the wall in question by removing the drywall or whatever wall covering it has, to expose the stud framing.  At this point you should be able to see the general construction.  If you expose enough stud above the opening you are trying to create you can take a piece of plywood, 1/2" thick or better and at least a foot tall and wider than the new opening is going to be.  Screw this plywood to the studs over the opening giving yourself enough room to remove the stud below and install the header.  This plywood will act as a temporary gusset to keep any settling or movement in check as you remove and replace the studs below with your header.  

Have all of your materials ready to go, your header built, a sawzall to cut the studs etc..  Make the cut and install the header as seamlessly as possible and you should be fine.

If, after removing the wall sheathing you find that this wall is minimally part of a support system or not load bearing at all then you can skip the plywood gusset and proceed with removal and repair of the studs.  In lieu of the plywood gusset, a piece of 2x6 screwed to the studs will also suffice as a temporary header as well.

I hope this information helps, please feel free to write again regarding this or other matters, sincerely bruce e johnson.