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QUESTION: Hi,
I have a contractor yesterday to install an outside door in the basement. Given that the basement is lower than door height (74", door is 80"), the contractor cut as section of the outside joist, one 6x6 I believe, which is right on top of the opening of the concrete foundation. He put a couple of 12x2 presure treated in one side and one in the other. My question, should he have put something to compensate the lost section of the joist? Have in mine this is the outside joist that suport the exterior walls.
Thanks,
Damian

ANSWER: Hi Damian,

I would say yes the rim joist should have been doubled or tripled to support the wall above. I would have cut the door to fit even if it is a pre-made unit. Its a bit more work but saves hacking the floor up. If you excavated for this door your footing will now be exposed to frost if you live in a cold part of Canada. Depending on the load from above you may want to install a header in the bottom of the wall above (fairly quick and easy to do).

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QUESTION: So my fears were true. Fortunately, I was about to paint the room just over this part of the basement. Maybe I can opne the dry wall, cut the studs to feet the header, put the header, close the drywall and paint it. But how I would attach the header to old rim joist? I was thinking on putting a 6x6, same size I have now or close, so I guess nailing is not an option. A 13" bolt would do it? Regarding the footinf, they put just hidrolic cement, but they did not excavate, so it is at the same level than before. I'm in St John's anyways, I don'think that frost would be problem.
I have attached a picture of the job.
Thanks for the answer,
Damian

Answer
Hey Damian,

If you can build up the rim joist a wall header may not be as necessary (depending on load from above). The rim does not need to be attached to this header as it takes the weight off the rim joist. The header in the wall should be in the bottom preferably and a couple of 2x8's should be good with at least 3" beyond the sides of the opening below.

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Michael Curry

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Carpentry and new home framing - insulation - drywall - roofing - foundations (block and poured) flooring (wood and ceramic) masonry While I build complete houses I am not qualified in plumbing or electrical.

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Have been building new homes for 22 years and run my own company. I do or supervise most of the work.

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