Building Homes or Extensions/Removing Load bearing wall
Expert: Ted Barnhill (Principal, Design45 LLC) - 2/10/2011
Question
I have a Split Foyer built in 1963. Hip roof with rafters. I would like to completely remove the wall between theliving are and kitchen/dining. After removing the wall board I notice a doubled 2x10 above a previous 8' opening. I am unsure about the possible load on this wall.
The floor joists below run parallel to the wall and this wall sits dead center between two joists on nothing but sub floor.
The ceiling joists run perpendicular to the wall and also transition above this wall. There are 2x6 running from the front of the house to this wall (about an 12' span) and there are 2x8 running from the back of the house to this wall (about a 14' span) The ceiling joists are nailed together above this wall. I can see visable air gaps between the doubled up 2x4 at the top of the wall. There are also gaps all over. The header doesn't actually touch the jacks for instance there is a 1/8 gap.
Althoug it appers to be load bearing I cannot find or see anything for it to transfer the load to. Also the wall wiggles fairly easy now that the wall board is off. There doesn't appear to be any actual weight on the wall.
Thoughts?
AnswerRich,
Yes, that is a load-bearing wall. If the attic floor has had no load on it (no storage), then it is not too surprising that the headers and jack studs appear not to be stressed. This may be due to the effect of the outward thrust from your rafters creating tension across your floor joists, which limits sag of the ceiling. At any rate, you do need to support the (relatively light) load of the ceiling, and any future attic storage loads. I would recommend that you have your local lumberyards size a beam based on your spans. As you mentioned, the load should also be properly supported on the floor below, which depending on spans might entail blocking between your joists, a new double joist, or new columns/walls through to your basement floor.
Ted Barnhill
Design 45 LLC