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QUESTION: i have a load bearing wall that runs across from front of the house to the back end which is about 42 feet in length.I need to cut a 4X6 feet insert at 33 feet and ending at 39 feet. The load bearing wall has two joists under the load baaring wall one placed at 20 feet from the front and the other at 30 feet from the front.What suggestions do you have?

ANSWER: Hi Christopher   I need more information to answer this question.  First of all I don't understand what you mean when you are talking about your joists being spaced at 20' and 30'..I don't get the relation to that comment and your opening problem..the joists you need to be concerned about would be the ones directly over the opening you want to create.  Also you don't mention what your wall is made of..is it masonry? Brick? Wood frame? If you'd care to write back With more detailed information I can better address your problem..sincerely Bruce E Johnson..bejohnsonconsulting.com

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QUESTION: sorry,will try ro be more specific this is a drywall/wood home.The basement has a concrete foundation and concrete walls up to the first level roof,thereafter it is wood working up to the second floor.The joists are only in the basement which are 4 of them centered to take the load.The joists hold a metal beam which runs across and rests on the concrete walls on either side.I need to make an opening on the main floor which does not have any metal joists going further up

ANSWER: Hi again Christopher, what you are calling "joists" sounds like "columns". A column is a vertical "up and down" support..a "joist" is a horizontal support like a floor joist or a ceiling joist..now if the wall you want to make a doorway in has ceiling or floor joists bearing over the location where you want to make an opening then this wall is a bearing wall..does the wall you want to put a doorway in have stuff bearing on it?

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QUESTION: yes the joists are columns,but they are only in the basement and do not go up any further(They support the horozantal metal beam across).There are already 3 openings or door ways in the same path on top.I need to open a 4th in line with the others.The bedroom on top of it has a 5 inch wood wall.

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header install
header install  
Hi again Christopher, so basically what you are saying is that there is a support beam in the basement down the middle of the building.  The first floor has a wall that sits on top of that beam and that wall holds the floor joists for the second floor.  You want to cut a door opening in that wall and not an outside bearing wall?  Okay, this is a fairly simple operation. What you do to reinforce the wall where you want the new door way is to install a header in the wall to carry the joists over this opening.  Chances are your second floor joists are 24" apart so in reality you only have two to three floor joists sitting above the area in question.  These joists can be temporarily supported while the opening is cut and a new header is installed.  Take a flat 2x4 about eight feet long and using a couple of screws attach it to the ceiling of the first floor centered on the new opening you want to create about two feet from the wall you are cutting the opening in (do this on each side of the wall)..once you have the 2x4 secure then measure and cut some 2x4s to length to jam under the 2x4 temporary plate you just attached to the ceiling.  This temporary shoring should be enough to keep the second floor shored up long enough to install a header in the wall.  Remove the studs in the wall where you want your opening, cut two 2x6 the width of your new opening plus 6"..nail the two 2x6 together to make your header, take two of the removed wall studs and nail one on each side of the new header.  Now you have a header on two stud legs.  Stand up this header into place, plumb the studs and nail everything together (toe nail the studs to the bottom plate of the existing wall and toe nail the new header to the top plate of the existing wall.  All you have left to do after that is install two cripple studs under each end of the new header.  Once the new header is in place and supported by the cripple studs you can then safely remove your temporary shoring and then drywall and finish the opening.  I am attaching a simple drawing. I must caution you though that I haven't see your actual conditions and am assuming there is not a concentrated load above this portion of your wall that I am unaware of.  I always urge homeowners to consult a local engineer before removing structural elements in case there are unforseen existing conditions. I hope this information helps please feel free to write again regarding this or other matters, sincerely bruce e johnson..bejohnsonconsulting.com

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Bruce E. Johnson

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I can answer any construction related question in regards to carpentry, concrete, drywall, masonry, structural elements of any type of building, residential or commercial. Interior or exterior.

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Custom Commercial and residential buildings. Churches, theaters, schools and auditoriums. Most recently I am working with the Catholic Church on several design build committees. I have a website related to scheduling and project supervision. Although my expertise is more related to multimillion dollar commercial, educational and theatrical projects my generous credentials in residential and remodelling construction make me a viable source of information regarding all forms of building questions.

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