Expert: Bruce E. Johnson - 1/24/2012

Question
QUESTION: Bruce- I have a 115 yr old Victorian 2 and half story home, original structure 2 course brick (about 9 1/2 inch thick with inch and half space between and scattered brick tieing courses together) The ceilings are about 9 1/2 feet tall on first floor. There is a 2 story rear frame addition tied into brick structure above where I want to open up wall.

I want to expand the kitchen through what was the original rear exterior brick wall into the existing frame addition to gain the 9 ft area. The opening will be spanning 9 ft. through the brick wall above where the original rear door lentil is, and several feet to both sides. This wall also has the second floor beams of the frame addition tied into the outside course of brick at 2nd floor level. Every other beam of this addition extends into the brick wall, with alternating beams nailed into cross 2x8's between those brick supported beams. doesn't seem the best construction but it has lasted at least 60 yrs. If possible I would like to have new beam under those addition beam connections to original brick wall just to be safe.

I have opened areas for doors and windows in brick walls before using 3x4 , 1/4 inch angle iron on both sides, but never this wide of a span and having a second story of brick weight with tied-in addition beams above span area. I would like to keep the finished kitchen ceiling as close to a continuous plain as possible, dropping as little as necessary for any additional support beam- but will sacrifice look for function. I do not have access to the brick areas on either side of span above what would be the 1st floor ceiling height.

How do I support/stabilize the wall while getting a structural beam up tight into place? Any support from underneath will be in the way of the new structural beam. ??

I had considered using heavy angle iron on both sides, (maybe with a bigger vertical height for strength) inserted into a cleared grout line at a level height, and drilling through the sides of all  metal and brick.  Slide a wood filler up between brick courses  and pass through 1/2 inch all thread with nuts on both sides to stabilize. Would this be enough strength or just prep to clear wall below for stronger beam?? and it may be very difficult to get that long of an angle iron inserted into straight cleared grout line with out shock to old brick wall and falling bricks, don't know??

If I need an additional beam inset below,  what kind of beam would be cost effective and manageable for a few guys (steal I beam or several wood micro lams ganged together) How much overlap on ends of new beam into brick is needed for support.

What kind of support columns are necessary for the new beam? The beam will be extended into old brick wall at ends, I'm thinking 8 to 10" if possible, but for the new supporting side columns do I need metal or group a couple 2x10's together?  should I take down the brick wall to top of foundation and put columns on wood floor beams or cast a new concrete base over wood or lay a steal plate over the old wood??

Any other things I haven't considered would also be appreciated Bruce.

Thanks much for your help,     Jeff

ANSWER: Hi Jeff, yes you can use angle iron to create a lintel for your new opening.  However without looking at all of the variables involved I am hesitant to give the green light on the project without an engineer looking at it.  Most brick and block work is self supporting through friction ( if you have ever picked up a child's wood blocks three or more at a time by applying pressure to the two outside blocks you can visualize my point).  If the remaining sections of the wall on each side of the opening have sufficient mass the center of your opening will stay intact until you can get the new lintel supports in place.  What I don't know is how much weight is bearing on this portion of wall you want to remove and what kind of foundation ultimately will carry the newer concentrated load created at the ends of the lintel steel.  Off the top of my head I would want to see a minimum of eight inches of bearing on each end.  An engineer may require more bearing depending on the overall weight being transferred.  Whenever I do a wall cutout like this I do my horizontal header cut first and then install the lintel angle iron before making my vertical side cuts.  A 4" x 6" angle inside and out with the 6" leg of the angle pointing up and the brick bearing on the 4" leg.  I would use no less than a 3/16" steel, preferably 1/4". But even at 1/4" the angle should be manageable.  I hope this info helps please feel free to write again regarding this or other matters, sincerely Bruce Johnson

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: If I am understanding correctly, you belive that the pair of 4" x 6"(vertical) 1/4" angle iron should be enough to carry the load without any additional beam inserted below?  I would get as much bearing at ends as possible, no less than 8" into old brick wall (which are built up directly on original stone foundation), and add two- 2" x 10" vertically ganged against cut off brick ends, doing best to transfer load directly to foundation (form concrete pad on cleared stone foundation as platform for these 2" x 10"s. What about my constructing a temporary 2" x 6" wall below beams of frame addition parallel to where joining brick wall, a couple feet in from brick wall, to help carry additional weight while inserting angle irons- necessary or not? Once I have a game plan I'll run it past an engineer. What is best way to find a qualified structural engineer who could look at my project without going through an architect/permitting process red tape. Thanks again for the help.  Jeff

Answer
Hi again Jeff.  If you are concerned about shoring there is a way..first you cut out a column of brick in the center of the opening sixteen inches wide full height of new opening and full depth of wall.  Remove this column of brick and then install a 4x4 post in the center of the column to shore up the center of the opening.  Now you can remove each half of the remaining opening and stick a 4x4 mid way in each of those openings.  Now you have a completely shored up opening.  When installing the 4x4s cut them an inch short and put a strip of 1/2" plywood at the top and bottom. And center your post in the wall so that it supports both layers of brick.   Make sure your plywood at the top is in a couple of inches so yo can lift your interior steel angle into place.  Once your interior angle is in place you can start tapping the posts toward the outside as you tap the angle into place.  Once your interior angle is in place you can now remove the posts and install the exterior angle.  If you want  you can then shore up your interior angle with the posts until everything is through bolted together.  Home Depot or Lowe's have these squeeze handle clamps that you can use to clamp the two angles together until you can drill your holes through the brick ( have the angle predrilled with 9/16" holes 6" in from each end and 24" apart, use galvanized 1/2" bolts with washers .  But I still think you should have an engineer look at it..look up PEs in the yellow pages call around..if you do most of the work, photos, measurements, etc. it shouldn't cost much.. You will do best with a small one man firm or partnership.  Let me know if you need anything else..sincerely Bruce johnson