Building Homes or Extensions/removing brick bearing wall
Expert: Dan Griffin - 1/18/2012
QuestionDan- I have a 115 yr old Victorian 2 and half story home, original structure 2 course brick (about 9 1/2 inch thick with inch and half space between and scattered brick tieing courses together) There is a 2 story rear frame addition tied into brick structure. I want to expand the kitchen through what was the original rear exterior brick wall into the existing frame addition. The opening will be spanning 9 to 9 1/2 ft. through the brick wall above where the original rear door lentil is, and several feet to both sides. This wall also has the second floor beams tied into the outside course of brick at 2nd floor level. I have opened areas for doors and windows in brick walls before using 4x4 , 1/4 inch angle iron on both sides, but never this wide of a span and having a second story of brick weight with tied in addition beams above span area. I would like to keep the finished kitchen ceiling as close to a continuous plain as possible, dropping as little as necessary for any additional support beam- but will sacrifice look for function. I do not have access to the brick areas on either side of span above what would be the 1st floor ceiling height. If I do need a beam, how do I support wall while getting beam up tight into place? Can I use ganged micro lam beams rather then metal I beam? What size? And what kind of support is needed on each end of beam- will 2- 4x4s or 3- 2x10s on each end do? Thanks much for your help, Jeff
AnswerJeff, quite a challenge. I am not a structural engineer and this is one time that I really feel one is warranted.
Here are some of the issues and answers:
Column support for header. The big issue here is what will the columns be pushing on and is that bearing adequate for the point loads. I think I would consider steel columns as you will get much better support with a smaller dimension. It will be fairly straight forward to box the columns into the new walls.
Headers can be wood or steel. Here again, I think steel will require a smaller dimensioned member. I think, only conjecture, that c channels on each face of the brickwork through bolted can carry the masonry span while creating the hole and become the finish lintel. It may require some flat strap on the bottom flanges to carry all the brick load. In fact it might work out nicely to use the through bolted c channels as header and as side support columns, allowing having a structural hold of the entire opening before breaking it out. I would certainly discuss this approach with your structural man. I think this approach would/could be the support for the floor joists above as well as the brickwork. I suspect that the steel dimension will be 10 or 12 " for the header, smaller for the sides, all through bolted with 1/2" (minimum) all thread. This could all be boxed in when complete to look really nice.
Review with a structural engineer. I hope this helps a little.