Building Homes or Extensions/ceiling

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QUESTION:   house was built in 1958  i  am in the process of moving in an noticed in the kitchen an living room where new ceiling fans where installed that theres a crack about 5 feet in the swirl ceilings going right through the middle of the fans. could that happen when the ceiling fans where installed???  how do i repair the cracks?? is there a joint compound i should use an i do i keep the swirl effect when filling in the crack?

ANSWER: A 1958 home might well have a plaster ceiling rather than drywall.  Someone had to be up in the attic to work on the electric boxes for the ceiling fans.  Yes, I suspect the crack is the result of that work.

You never said how big the crack is.  Find out for me if it is plaster or drywall.  The cure will be different for each.  The repair may well require new texture on the entire ceiling.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: its plaster, swirled ceiling...an the crack is about 5ft. long

Answer
There are several answers.

If everything is basically sound, gouge out the crack.  An old fashioned beer can opener is an ideal tool.  Gouge plenty deep, even all the way through.  The easiest product to use to fill it back is setting type drywall compound.  This stuff is in a bag to be mixed with water.  You can buy different setting times from 15 minute to 90 minute.  Mix it up well to the consistency of soft peanut butter.  Use a spray bottle to really dampen the edges of the crack and apply the compound.  Use a narrow putty knife to apply.  Make small batches, you can always make more; and be aware the first coat will probably shrink a little bit and need a second application.  Once you have filled up the crack it is time to worry about the texture.  Without seeing it I can't advise.  On some piece of scrap -it can be a piece of cardboard, plywood, drywall, etc- try different things.  A notched trowel, a comb, a stiff bristled brush to duplicate the swirls.  It is more art than skill.

If there is large bond failure (tap on the plaster with something hard like a screwdriver handle, unbonded plaster has a very distinct sound - you just know it is only staying there because it hasn't fallen yet) the job has just gotten bigger.  Choice 1: remove all that is unbonded at least to the lath to either re-plaster the area, a daunting task, but do-able.  If you decide on this find USG Structolite plaster as it only needs water.  On second thought, wait and do your first plaster work on a wall, not on a ceiling.  Choice 2: Remove the unbonded plaster out to  a rectangle or square, fill in the missing plaster with drywall of an appropriate thickness - it is available in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, and 1 1/8 - do not hesitate to build up several layers.  You can screw the drywall to sound wood lath or break out to joist framing.  Use fiberglass mesh tape and the same setting type drywall compound mentioned above.  Tape and bed until the area blends into the ceiling.  Texture as above.

If all else fails, you can hang a layer of thin drywall on the entire ceiling.  This will require tape, bed, and texture.

Remember some of the charm of a real plaster ceiling can be well maintained cracks and uneveness.  Perhaps you can look back to the first method and do some very light scratching, patching, and blending.  

Let me know what you decide and how it comes out.

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Dan Griffin

Expertise

I can answer almost all questions related to the total construction process. My expertise is in commercial construction, though I can field most any residential question. I have hands on experience in concrete, heavy equipment, masonry, all phases of carpentry, interior finishes, and I am fairly strong in mechanical and electrical.

Experience

I have over 20 years experience as a commercial carpenter and commercial construction superintendent. I have another 20 years experience in facility management for a major school district.

Organizations
My favorite hobby for he past 12 years has been singing bass in a The OkChorale men's barbershop chorus and the Mature Moments quartet.

Education/Credentials
I hold a Bachelor's degree in English and Math. I have completed many continuing education hours in the building trades. I hold a Master Carpenter card from the AGC, Associated General Contractors.

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