You are here:

Bulbs/moving glad bulbs

Advertisement


Question
The Glads are really the only thing that we want to move.  We have many other bulbs of all kinds (tulips, daffodils, lillies, hyacinths, irises, and crocuses) which we'd like to leave in place as much as possible, although we know we may mess some of them up.  Several yrs ago when my stepfather planted everything he didnt know much about the design of a garden and our glads are randomly placed. They dont do too well without staking up and we want to move them to the back, behind taller plants to hold them up.  

We dont pull them up for the winter and they do fine, so should they be replanted right away or should we let them set for the winter?  Our areas planting season for bulbs is in a couple mths. so I think replanting it right away would be best right?  

I want to do this the easiest and safest way for the bulbs. I know they may not all make it but hopefully most will.

thanks

-------------------------

Followup To

Question -
I live in zone 6 and we have several glads throughout our garden (which isnt very big at all, its a town house) which we want to move.  They have already bloomed and some have been cut back.  We have several other bulbs in no particular order also.  What will be the best plan to move these bulbs?  Should they be dug up and replant right away?  etc.  Thanks!

Answer -
Jessica, most people toss their glads after they bloom - they must be lifted, with rare exceptions, to survive the winter which must be spent in your basement.  Are you hoping to move your "other bulbs" which could be dormant tulips, active tuberoses, tender blooming perennials, dahlias...

If you dig and replant, do it quickly.  Gentle is the key word here.  You cannot avoid some damage, but every plant experiences some degree of shock with a transplant.  Go easy on the fertilizer and take as large a rootball as you can practically get to keep the roots comfy.

If you are intending to move other bulbs, please identify what those might be - care would be varied, depending on the plant.  rsvp!

Answer
If you have the time, it would be better to wait before taking on this project.  Just long enough that the foliage has started to turn brown and the roots are withering.  You can cut the leaves 2 inches from the corm but if you are going to replant them, you can also let the foliage die back naturally.

Remember to select a location where there is ubstantial sun but protection from wind.  Since you're in the neighborhood, it would be a good idea to add generous amounts of Bone Meal to enrich the soil you are going to be growing these in.  The Bone Meal will provide small, healthy doses of Phosphorous for strong root and flower development next year.  

Again, wait a month or two.  Like they say, good things come to those who wait.

I hope this answers your question.  If not, please write back for clarification.

Bulbs

All Answers


Ask Experts

Volunteer


Long Island Gardener

Expertise

Growing Tulips? Dahlias? Daffodils? Gladiolus? It doesn't get easier than bulbs and tubers. Once in a while, something goes wrong: The dreaded Narcissus Bulb Fly, which resembles a honeybee. Mosaic virus, which can ignite a field of tulips in a single season. Nematodes, lurking underground. Here on the North Shore of Long Island, the garden is full of surprises. If you live in the Northeast/Atlantic Coast, I can help you pick the right bulb for every season, indoors and out, and help you fertilize, bloom and harvest for home or work. How: I have degrees in related fields, but my best understanding is all learned from trial and error. For most of my 53 years I have been gardening somewhere. No matter what the problem, I've learned the best answers are always Organic -- Earth friendly, less expensive, healthier for people and pets, easier and cleaner than toxic liquids and powders that big chemical companies sell so smoothly.

Experience

Besides degrees in related fields, and a few favorite horticultural societies, I work as a docent at our local botanical gardens -- but it's the years of work in the garden that's the real test.

©2012 About.com, a part of The New York Times Company. All rights reserved.