Bulbs/potted Stargazer Lillies care
Expert: Kenneth Joergensen - 9/13/2006
QuestionHi,
I live in Seattle Wa and recently purchased some potted stargazer lillies for my girlfriend. I am very inexperienced in caring for plants, but would like to make this plant last as long as possible as it holds special significance. We live in an apartment, so the plant will need to remain potted. What is the best way to care for this plant under these circumstances?
We've kept it near a window and have been watering moderately around twice a day. The plant looked healthy for approximately two weeks, but recently the leaves started curling at the edges and then turned brown and died. As fall and winter are approaching, what behavior should I expect from the plant? I really know very little about caring for flowers so any advice you can give is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
AnswerStargazers grow from a bulb. The bulb starts to sprout in early spring and will grow to fill size in about 3-4 months, although if given warm temperatures, such as indoors, then it can grow to full size in 45 days.
Lilies grow once per season and flower. Once it has flowered the lily flower wither and that is it for the season.
Once they have flowered, the flower petals will start to fall off. At this time, you can go ahead and "deadhead" the flower (cut the flower off) but leave the stem with leaves. The stem w/leaves are required for the bulb to recharge. Continue to water the plant regularily and keep in full sun.
Lilies need lots of light or they will tend to lean. While the potted lily was pretty short (1-2 feet), a lily which grow in the second season tend to be very long (4-5 feet indoors in warm temperatures). Account for this next year. Put in a larger pot which does not dry out as quickly (always make sure there are drainage holes and always empty saucer immediately. Lily bulbs will rot if left standing in water)
In early fall, the stem may start to turn yellow and the plant die back. This is natural and it will happen sooner or later depending on whether a disease has formed. Normally diseases are not harmfull to lilies, but it can prematurely damage the stem w/foliage and that may result in a situation whereby the lily did not properly recharge. All lily plants will eventually die back, however. Once this is done, watering is less critical, but the soil should never be allowed to become bone dry (outdoors you would not need to water, but indoors you need to keep the soil MOIST, never wet, but damp). Do this by watering when the soil is dry 1" deep.
For best result, put the pot in the fridge after the soil has died back and keep it there until a sprout forms, usually next spring. If no sprout has formed by april, you can take the pot out and place it in full sun such as by a window. If a sprout forms in the fridge, the put must be removed promptly and immediately taken to a sunny window.
The best result you will get if you give the lily cool temperatures in spring, but it is not absolutely required.
If you have access to a balcony, keep the lily outdoors in spring. THe pot can take mild frost (but heavy frost) and overall this is best for the lily. If you do not have access to outdoors, you can use the fridge to cool the bulb in winter, but your results may not be as good year after year.
Lily bulbs are good potted plants when first purchased. Once they go through their first season, they are better planted outdoors and then you can buy new ones next year for indoors. You can keep lilies as potted plants if you follow above, but it is not as easy as many other houseplants.