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Bulbs/reblooming an amaryllis

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QUESTION: I have some bulbs I bought at Wal-greens about three years ago. They bloomed that winter. I left them alone and watered them regularly all year.. and they didn't bloom last year! I'm not sure if it's because winter was hot last year or if I did something wrong. So I did some research.. and the consensus was to dig em up, cut off the leaves, and put them in news paper. I did that in August. I was just wondering if that was good advice. Should I keep them in the fridge? When is the best time to repot them(they were in the ground before)? What else can I do? Any tips at all would be greatly appreciated! I live in Fort Lauderdale, Fl if that helps.

There were a couple that had soft spots and a pourus area where the roots should've been. They look semi-rotted. I kept them, is there any hope for them down the road?

Also, there are other, smaller bulbs, not Amaryllis, that a cowaorker gave me. They've never bloomed and I'm not even sure what they are. The woman that gave them to me said they definately bloom though. Is there a way to find out? Is there a rule of thumb for trying to get bulbs to bloom in general or is the method different for each type?
I've tried to stay away from bulbs, because the area I live in isn't exactly condusive for many. But I want to take care of the ones I have now.
Sorry if this is too long... I hope they're good questions though..

ANSWER: Good question and plenty of information to work with here.  Thanks for writing, Clementine!

Amarylis need a rest period between flowerings.  They may not get that if you water them too much.  Watch the leaves after they flower.  As soon as you notice a little brown here and there, it's time to stop watering and wait for Nature to take its course.

If you're doing this right, your Amaryllis will look DEAD.

Yes, to the untrained eye, this looks like a total loss.  I had a friend who threw mine out as a favor to me.  To her, this was a pot of dirt and a dead bulb and I was in denial.  To me, it was a bulb with a great past and a beautiful future.  I was able to save it and a few months later, poof! out slipped this little green sprout on the side, looking like a verdant tongue sticking itself out at her.  She was shocked.  And boy did it bloom.

This is hard only because it is unfamiliar.  Once you get the hang of it, you will probably go out and buy more.  They're gorgeous plants and need very little care.   The only downside is that you have to live with a dead pot for a few months out of the year.  Where you store that pot is problematic -- you must be able to notice if it is sprouting, but you don't want to live with an eyesore that takes up space, either.

One more thing: Amaryllis need FULL SUN while they're growing.  Without Full Sun, I'm afraid, they will not have the energy to make those big, beautiful Amaryllis flowers.

Don't repot.  Grow in the same pot for 3 to 5 years.  They grow better that way.

Any followup questions?

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: My lovely Long Island Gardener,
Thanks for all that info! It was really helpful and encouraging! I definitely feel more confidant now. You're the cat's meow. If they bloom this year it will be mostly because of you.
Would you say I should put them in pots now? Because they're completely out of the ground and in news paper bags in my closet. They've been in there since.. beginning of August. The average temp in there is about 70 degrees.
Should the pots be shallow? Is tera cotta okay? I've heard the bulb should fit with about 1-2'' in diameter to spare. Is that Accurate?
Thanks in Advance,
Clem

Answer
Terracotta makes an excellent pot for these.  It breathes fresh air in and out instead of trapping moisture and locking out Oxygen.

More important: How big is the pot you are putting your bulb in?  The bulb should fit with no more than an inch of soil around the widest part.  Don't over-pot these; they need a fit that's snug, but not too snug.

Also, the top 1/2 inch of the bulb should be poking out of the soil so that you can see it -- very different from planting Tulips or Agapanthus.

Don't use one of those soils with built in fertilizer.  They are not doing you any favors.  Do your own fertilizing if and when you come to that.  For now, the plain vanilla dirt in a bag with sand and/or humus and/or compost will be fine.  If you are really into this, go out to your local field and get a container of dry silt.   Then go buy a bag of sand and a bag of Humus.  Mix gently, and pot everything, one to a pot.

70 degrees F is OK, but the sooner you get this plant into a real pot, the better.  Water once, put in the window and let it dry.  If there is no action by the time the soil dries, don't water it again until something sprouts.  If you do see a touch of Green sticking out from the bulb, water again with room temperature or lukewarm water, and wait for the stalk.  Don't overwater.  These need air as much as H2O.  Overwatering breeds anaerobic bacteria, and they are where bulb rot comes from.

After the bloom is finished, cut it off to prevent formation of seeds, and continue to give the bulb plenty of bright light and water.  You do not need to fertilize more than once or twice a year at a highly diluted rate.  Too much Nitrogen will boost growth of pathogenic bacteria in this small pot, and then you're in trouble.

This is so easy, I'm telling you, you will be out shopping for more next year.

Thanks for writing and good luck.

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Growing Tulips? Dahlias? Daffodils? Gladiolus? It doesn't get easier than bulbs and tubers. Once in a while, something goes wrong: The dreaded Narcissus Bulb Fly, which resembles a honeybee. Mosaic virus, which can ignite a field of tulips in a single season. Nematodes, lurking underground. Here on the North Shore of Long Island, the garden is full of surprises. If you live in the Northeast/Atlantic Coast, I can help you pick the right bulb for every season, indoors and out, and help you fertilize, bloom and harvest for home or work. How: I have degrees in related fields, but my best understanding is all learned from trial and error. For most of my 53 years I have been gardening somewhere. No matter what the problem, I've learned the best answers are always Organic -- Earth friendly, less expensive, healthier for people and pets, easier and cleaner than toxic liquids and powders that big chemical companies sell so smoothly.

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Besides degrees in related fields, and a few favorite horticultural societies, I work as a docent at our local botanical gardens -- but it's the years of work in the garden that's the real test.

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