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Question
Hi Jamie

I noticed that you answered a question regarding Under-sink kitchen cabinet base repair in Nov 2007.  You gave some great insight as to how to remove the middle strip in order to replace the warped base bottom; however, how can I and what material can I use to replace the warped base?  This base also has particle board and is part of the cabinets.  Therfore, I did not know how to go about removing and replacing it and what I would use in order to get the replacement board to adhere to the base.  Any help you could provide would be great!

Answer
Hi Tony,

It's going to be somewhat of a big job to replace that damaged bottom under your sink base cabinet, so you need to make sure that you don't start something that you can't finish. Do you have tools to use, and at least some skills, like the ability to cut a square replacement bottom?

If I were replacing a damaged bottom, I would cut out the center support (as I described in that old All Expert's answer from November, 2007, and then simply cover the damaged bottom with something that's a little more durable. See, actually removing that bottom is pretty difficult. The bottom is probably nailed into the sides from the outside. Unless you have a reciprocating saw to cut out the bottom, removing it can be pretty tricky.

OK, if you have a reciprocating saw, you could cut the bottom out, and install some cleats around the perimeter of the cabinet, for the new bottom to sit on. The old bottom sits in a rabbet, which is a groove that will hold and support the wood in place. The cleats will give the new bottom a ledge to rest upon.  Once you install the cleats, then you can simply drop the new bottom into place and reinstall that center divider.

But if you don't have a lot of tools at your disposal, maybe it would be better to simply cover up the old bottom with a new one, out of better materials. It sort of depends on how bad the bottom is now.  

If I were going to simply cover the old one up with a better one, I would probably use a thin piece of plywood (so you won't see the plywood edges when you open your cabinet up. Maybe half inch plywood would work. Plywood would be infinitely better than particle board, and make sure you use an exterior grade plywood, as it won't de-laminate if it gets wet. Cover it with something that's easy to keep clean - could be Formica if you know how to do that, or contact paper, or just a couple coats of a good quality exterior paint. You just want to be able to keep it clean.  To keep the plywood from warping, you should do the treatment to both sides of the board. So if you paint one side, you should paint the other, ever though it doesn't show.

OK, without more information from you, I 'm not sure I can help much more. Please feel free to write back if you have more questions, and good luck. It's not an easy fix, but it's "doable" if you have decent skills and tools available to you.

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com

Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks

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Jamie Yocono

Expertise

Woodworker, Furniture designer/builder, industrial arts educator. Bachelor degree in Furniture Design, and journeyman carpenter, with a 4 year apprenticeship. Currently owner of custom furniture/cabinet shop in Las Vegas, NV. Can answer most woodworking questions EXCEPT those regarding repairs, refinishing, and antiques.

Experience

Bachelor in Furniture Design - Ohio University (1980) Journeyman Carpenter, Local 639 Adult educator - Developed adult education woodworking program for the University of Akron, and taught classes there for 9 years. Opened a private woodworking school in Las Vegas, NV and teach private and semi-private lessons. In 2011, I will begin teaching UNLV woodworking classes at my school. Sweet!

Organizations
Furniture Society

Publications
Tile Design and Installation Magazine (Article on inlaying tile into wood)

Education/Credentials
Journeyman Union Carpenter Bachelors degree in Furniture Design (Ohio University) College of Hard Knocks!

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