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Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Removing whitewash stain

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QUESTION: We have very nice oak cabinets that are 8 years old. They are in great shape and sides are solid as well so we don't need to replace them. However, they are a whitewash stain and we want to go with a medium-dark color. I've got a test cabinet to work with and have stripped it with Minwax's antique furniture refinsher and steel wool rather than a standard stripper/scraping since we have a lot of raised panels and not sure how well I could get it out of the cracks. the stripping works pretty well, but I've tried various stains and nothing seems to darken it very much. The Minwax stripper has a "conditioner" built into it so I'm wondering if that is "sealing" the wood somehow. Should I try to use something like mineral spirits afterwards to see if I can get the stain darker? We've even tried a mahogony color and after two coats only get to a mild walnut color. Thanks for any help!!

ANSWER: Hi George
Nice to hear from you.
So many of the questions I get come from folks who are experiencing what you are with oak cabinets.
Here is what I recommend.
First I feel that a good paint stripper is needed.
I am surprised you were able to remove as much of the finish as you did with refinisher, but I feel it will have left a residue (as you suspect) that will not allow stain to penetrate.
Next I would use a gel stain.
Next is the bad news.
It is my experience that these oak cabinets do not absorb stain very well.
I have refinished old oak for years and always without exception the old oak takes stain beautifully...any color.
So I have concluded it has something to do with the age of the wood.
I can show you samples in my shop where I have taken a new piece of oak and an old piece and applied the same stain.
The old is great. The new just won't absorb the color.
I did find that aggressive sanding of the new oak helped the stain absorption.
But you must try the gel stain. It will be a lot better.
Hope this helps.
And always do samples of any new procedure.
Regards
Eileen





---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for your reply!! Quick follow up question. Fortunately I've got a "spare" cabinet that I can experiment with. I've tried a basic oil based stain as well as the poly-stain (we could debate the poly stain, but thats a whole different discussion - and I actually liked it!). Does the gel stain get that much more penetration? We're OK with the color we are getting with two coats of the poly-stain, but if we had our "perfect" pick it would be darker. So is the real issue getting closer to the raw wood? If so, how do you use a standard type of stripper that you scrape with the small, close edges of the raised/lowered panels? (Or is that the question of the century)?

Thanks again for your reply!!

Answer
Hi again George
Yes the poly stain is a whole different topic LOL.
Yes the real issue is getting down to the raw wood. The only issue really. You cannot stain properly if there is any finish residue on wood.
The panels are easy.
Apply the stripper. Wait a few minutes, rag off the most of it, then use medium steel wool and rub till the wood dries.
The steel wool gets in all the raised / lowered panels just fine.
Don't use a scraper.
Keep me posted
Eileen
PS I use only Circa 1850 paint and varnish remover. Available at the depot or hardware

Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks

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Eileen Cronk

Expertise

Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

Experience

I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

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