You are here:

Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Remove Whitewash from Kitchen Cabinets

Advertisement


Question
Hi Eileen,
I have oak kitchen cabinets that are whitewashed/pickled white.  They were
that way when we moved in 13 years ago and I'm really sick of it.  I've read
several posts and it sounds daughting to remove the finish to stain.  I really
would prefer to avoid painting them as the option. We had a painter a couple
years ago who could not repair and match the surface--makes me think the
prior owner used an evil glaze/topcoat.

Can you tell me what I should do, what products are best to remove tough
stuff, and what about ventilating?  We have kids and don't want to go toxic,
but we cannot afford to remove and replace.  Ideas?

Thanks for your input to the novice in need.
Jane

Answer
Hi Jane
Nice to hear from you.
OK...I have to ADMIT I love your spunk.
So lets get right at it.
When I get a question like this I put myself in your place.
I hate the cupboards and I am darn well going to change them.
You have a great starting point if you have oak cupboards.
Doesn't get any better.
So heres what I want to do.
Get a can of this stripper.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN...
Don't settle for anything else.
Then the work begins.
All the drawers and doors will have to be removed.
Take them to the garage.
But start with only one door for a test.
Follow my instructions for stripping which I include.
I don't care what is on the door for a finish if I want it off, I will get it off.
I'll bet you have read about the newer lacquer finishes that are terrible to remove. Well they are, but they will come off.
If you work in a well ventilated area there is no harm to the kids but keep them away from the stripping area.
So get the stripper and read the instructions and start with one door...in the garage.
Yes its a lot of work but just for info purposes, my son recently had a quote for new kitchen cupboards that came in at $30,000.
Unbelievably.
So get to work LOL.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN...

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections. One door or drawer at a time.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND
When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax stain applied with a rag. Then a top coat.
For your cupboards I recommend a poly finish.
You will need two coats.
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.
This may be a hard finish to remove (or maybe easy) but you must test and see.
Get back to me.
Regards
Eileen  

Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks

All Answers


Answers by Expert:


Ask Experts

Volunteer


Eileen Cronk

Expertise

Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

Experience

I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

©2012 About.com, a part of The New York Times Company. All rights reserved.