Expert: Eileen Cronk - 7/24/2008

Question
My situation is similar to the other lady who was refinishing a sewing machine
cabinet. My cabinet is from the late 40's early 50's. I am low experience. My
cabinet was given to me free but had damage from being out in the elements. I
don't know how long. I have begun the process of stripping it and the veneer is
not perfect, but I have been working on it. It has some edges that are peeling up
and I have been glueing these with yellow wood glue slipped under them with a
knife, and then clamping. Mostly this has been working very well, but in a couple
of places the veneer has chipped because it is so dry.
As I continue stripping, will the stripper harm the places I have glued?
Is there anything I can use to fill the tiny spot where the veneer cracked off?
What kind of stain should I use once the stripping is finished?
Is the tung oil finish that you describe appropriate for furniture from the early
50s?
Will the refinishing solve the dryness problem?
I do not like the glossy verithane type finishes, so the tung oil sounds attractive.
Will the finished piece look like regular furniture, or will it seem different.

(I have another old Singer treadlefrom the 30's - that cabinet is in pretty good
shape - does not need stripping, but I would like the one I am woring on to look
similar.)

What is the best procedure for ongoing maintenence of the finishes of these old
sewing machine cabinets?

I could send pictures if that would help.
Thanks a bunch,
Barbara  

Answer
Hi Barbara
Nice to hear from you.
No need for a picture as I am very familiar with these old sewing machines (I also love them).
Always make your repairs before stripping.
Especially to veneer.
The glue you are using is fine and it sounds like you have the method down pretty good too.
The stripper will not harm any areas you have glued but make sure the glue is well dried before stripping.
The stripper in fact will help by removing any surface glue residue that may have gotten onto the piece.
So don't worry about that part.
Next the chips.
Get a tube of colored wood filler.
Get a shade close to the wood color.
Fill and sand any chipped areas.
Most often two applications with drying in between is needed with the filler.
So fill, sand, fill again, sand again. Nice smooth job.
Choose a Minwax stain.
I think the color should be "Special walnut".
Tung oil is always a good choice for a finish.
There is no waxing or other maintenance needed. Just dusting.
The beauty of tung oil is you can add a coat at any time to freshen up or hide tiny scratches.
Even every 6 months or sooner if you want.
The piece will look lovely with 3 or 4 coats of tung oil.
And I agree with you about the poly finishes...awful on old furniture.
The only way this piece will look like the other machine you have is if its the same wood.
I suspect it is so you have no worries.
But remember every piece of wood looks different than the next.
Just the way it is.
Hope this helps.
If I missed anything write back.
Kind Regards
Eileen