Expert: Jamie Yocono - 8/9/2008

Question
QUESTION: We want to use hidden (European) hinges in our kitchen remodel. What hinge can we use so that the doors fit onto the cabinets?

Details:

Door width: 16 5/16" wide each
Cabinet width: 34" wide
Cabinet opening: 31 3/4"

We attempted to use the Belwith Euro Full Overlay Hinge (P6992-C) so we didn't have to drill into the cabinet doors but they didn't work (doors overlapped).

Thanks!


ANSWER: Hi Gina,

According to the dimensions you supplied, you need a hinge that gives you a 1/2" overlay. I got that dimension by adding the width of the doors plus a center gap, and then comparing it to your opening size. So two doors plus the gap is (32 5/8" + 1/8") 32 3/4. Since your opening is one inch smaller, you need each door to overlap the face frame by 1/2".

You didn't mention how much the doors overlapped, but that is part of the joy of euro hinges- the are (usually) adjustable in 3 different directions - up and down, side to side, and in and out. So if the hinge you bought is able to be adjusted, perhaps you're just overlooking the obvious. I just Googled that hinge to look at it and  studied the picture of the hinge. I now see how they provide adjustability. See the elongated screw holes? Depending on where the screw is placed in those slots, you can adjust the hinges. It's not the best system I've seen, but I suppose it gives you a little wiggle room.

I suggest that if the amount that the doors overlap is slight, you try to adjust the hinge a little bit, moving each door over. That means loosening the screw just a bit so it slides in that slot, and moving it over. Then re-tighten the screw.

If you're lucky, this might take care of the problem. If not, you have two options - if the amount of the overlap is small, you could possibly trim the doors down a bit. I'm talking 1/8" or less, it would be fine to shave the doors. But if the overlap is bigger, you can't take off that much wood from your door and not have it affect the look of the door.

So your second option would be to find a similar hinge that offers a 1/2" overlay. Off hand, I don't know of one, I don't use that type of hinge whatsoever, so I can't even venture a guess. But an online visit to a hardware store might help. I've had really good luck with this hardware store online: www.spokane-hardware.com.  They have really odd, obscure stuff that I haven't been able to find elsewhere. You can call them, too, and ask if they have what you're looking for, they're pretty great to work with.

That about all I can help with - if you locate another hinge that you think will work and want me to look at it, send me the info and I'll try to help a little more. But I've never used (nor seen) the Belwith hinge you mentioned, so I can't give any specific info about it.

Good luck, write back if you need to,

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com
My woodworking blog: www.wooditis.blogspot.com


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Jamie ~

Thank you so much for your response ~ it was very helpful.  After some (well, a lot!!) experimenting with scrap wood, a Forstner 35mm bit and several different hinges, I found that a 1 1/2" wrap-around hidden hinge will work for our cabinets.

Next question ~ What is the difference between the press in (dowel) and the screw in hinges?

Thanks!
Gina


Answer
Gina,

There is a slight difference between screw in and press in dowel hinges.

Screw in hinges simply (as their name would suggest) screw in with 2 screws.

I suggest two things - these are pretty important. First, double check the way the hinge fits in that hole. It's easy to think backwards, and if you drill the holes in the wrong place, you'll have two holes that look bad. So put the hinges in the holes (without any screws and double check how they attach to the base plate, so you get a clear picture in your head about how they go together.

****Please don't ignore this step, I've seen many of my students drill the screw holes in the wrong place, because they were visualizing this backwards.

The second important thing to do is pre-drill the screw holes. The wood is really delicate right there, and is easy to split if you don't pre-drill. If you have a self centering bit to pre-drill these holes, it's really easy. This bit is called a Vix bit, it helps you get the hole drilled in the exact center of the hinge hole. It's quite helpful, but not totally necessary.

OK, so that is what you would do for "screw in" hinges, test fit and pre-drill.

The other type hinge is a press in dowel hinge. what this means is that your door is drilled with 3 holes - the 35mm hole for your cup, and two small holes where plastic dowels would press in and stay in place. The dowels come on the hinge, it saves installers time since they don't have to pre-drill the screw holes ahead of time. The hinge comes with screws into small plastic dowels, so they just press the hinge in place.

It's really quick, but most people use the screw-in hinges.

If you would happen to buy the press-in hinges by accident, all you would do is unscrew the dowel, it comes right off! It's just a time savings device for people needing to do this quickly.  I prefer the screw in, but they DO take a little more time, since you have to pre-drill.

I tried to find a picture of both hinges, to show you, but couldn't locate one. But they are exactly the same, except one has screw holes (for screws) and one has screws inserted into plastic dowels, so that all you have to do is press the dowels into small holes already drilled in your door. I hope that makes sense! I think I'm repeating myself from too much caffeine.

OK,  I'm off to the woodshop for the day, you caught me just before I headed out. Good luck, I hope this helps. Write back if you have more questions,

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com
My woodworking blog: www.wooditis.blogspot.com