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About Michael Fitzpatrick
Expertise
Full time Furniture Maker and Designer can answer most furniture making, restoration, and repair questions. I come from a long history of home repair, and boat repair and have been a licensed builder in MA for 25 years and have engaged in most remodeling and building problems. www.bostonfurnituremaker.com
Experience
I make furniture and cabinets full time in Boston and have been working with my hands for 25 years. I have been classically trained at the North Bennet Street School (www.nbss.org)but have interest in contemporary designs and contemporary materials. Often, I use composites, laminations, carbon, and fiberglass incorporated with classic joinery, finish, and design within my wood projects. I use veneers, solid domestic and exotic wood. My influence in these materials came from house building, boat repair, and the furniture-making trades. In house building, I have apprenticed in: framing, drywall, plumbing, electrical, masonry, finish work and cabinet making.
Education/Credentials
Undergrad: University of New Hampshire and Boston University College of Engineering, North Bennet Street School (Boston)- 2 year Cabinet &Furniture Making Program.
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You are here: Experts > Hobbies > Woodworking > Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks > battery acid leakage
Expert: Michael Fitzpatrick
Date: 9/26/2008
Subject: battery acid leakage
Question
How do I repair a leakage of battery acid on my teak wood dining table?
Answer
Elaine-
This is one I have never dealt with before, I must admit...
However, if your teak table has no finish, or, it is the type you oil every so often, you may try a couple of things to remove it. I wold try TSP as a cleaner first, mix in a little bleach also - since it is a "base" it will neutralize an "acid". You will probably have to give special attention to the stain, then clean the whole table. I would use an old toothbrush to work the stain first.
The other option is to, after cleaning, try to match the stain color on the whole top. Find a stain that will match the stain (practice on an inconspicuous spot, like under the table, or a leg bottom...) in the minwax family, then stain the whole top a bit darker, it will hide the stain a little more.
The most extreme fix would be to sand the table top after cleaning and try to remove the teak material that is stained - but you would have to do it evenly over the whole top so there is not an obvious depression where the stain is.
The acid probably reacted with the tannins in the wood and darkened that spot. In my shop we use acids to age wood - potassium dichromate for mahogany, nitric acid for cherry and maple, so an alternative option to staining would be to use a diluted sulfuric acid, which is what typical battery acid is.
BUT - if you go down this road, you will need to have a business or institution buy it as companies will not ship to a residence. Sulfuric mist is HIGHLY toxic, and is a known carcinogen. When we use chemicals, we use appropriate protection: eye goggles, chemical proof gloves, and a very high quality respirator. Have plenty of ventilation - fans in the window.
We apply acid with a 90% dilution with water, paint it on the surface, allow the chemical to dry and it will darken the wood. If we want it darker we apply another application. There is a point where all the tannins are affected and it will no longer darken. Sand the surface when dry (same safety gear) with 220 grit sandpaper, then coat with oil of a finish appropriate for teak, usually a varnish base for a table top.
Discard the rest of the acid when you are done, check your locality as to proper disposal - but do not keep this around your house unless you have a "flammables" cabinet, or know someone who does.
I would strongly recommend letting a pro handle this aspect in an appropriate shop if this is the way you want to go
Let me know if I can answer any further questions...
Good Luck and thanks for the question.
Mike
www.bostonfurnituremaker.com
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