Expert: Greg Scholl - 11/28/2009

Question
Hi, A teak desk that was handmade for my father in Thailand in 1970 is now being shipped to me.  It has lived for the last 25 years in Florida.  I am concerned about the drastic change in humidity it is going to experience particularly now that it is winter here in northern Virginia and wondering what steps I should take to prevent cracking.  I am also confused about all of the contradictory information put forth on wax versus oiling solid wood furniture.  And lastly, I would like to refinish the desk as I do not care for the ash brown stain but am wondering what to do after stripping and staining - I've always been a polyurethane person due to raising 4 boys - but out of respect the craftsmanship of this piece should I consider another option?
Thanks so much,
Kathleen

Answer
Hi Kathleen, I wouldn't be worried about the desk moving much as Winter in Virginia and Florida are probably pretty similar in humidity levels.....It was likely finished with an oil finish...and typically this is a good choice for Teak furniture. These penetrating oil finishes harden though, like a varnish, but from in the wood, not on it , and my favorite, WaterLox Tung Oil finish, is very durable and resistant to water spotting, etc. Because they don't sit on top of the wood like a poly or typical varnish, they won't chip, peel, or flake, and can be simply cleaned, scuff sanded if need be, and reapplied to "freshen" the finish at a later date. Each coat needs 18-24hrs. to dry before any subsequent coats are applied, and final cure takes a few weeks, although it's dry to the touch in a day. The Teak is naturally a medium Brown color, so I'm afraid that's something you'll have to live with, it can't be lightened from it's natural coloration....If the desk is in need of refinishing, you can strip it and then use a wipe on Poly, or the WaterLox Tung Oil product. Stripping an oil finish is a daunting task, as the finish penetrates into the wood as I mentioned, and therefore it takes a strong stripper, and a lot of elbow grease to get it off. Also be aware that much of this furniture is not solid, and may be veneered, and that veneer is very thin...so be especially careful if doing any sanding. Wax is a fairly high maintenance finish, and will not protect nearly as well as either the poly or the penetrating oil finishes,causing you to have to rewax fairly often... so I would steer you away from that. If you do want to add some color, Watco Danish Oil finish is very similar to the WaterLox, and is available colored.Or you could use the General Gel stains and the Satin Gel Topcoat....excellent Pro quality products that are almost "goofproof" to apply and get excellent results. Hope that helps a little- Post back if need be- regards- Greg
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=46

http://www.waterlox.com/desktopmodules/fathomecom/Catalog/ProductDetail.aspx?ct=...

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005555/16557/Clear-Satin-Topcoat-Gel-Stain--Qu...