Expert: Eileen Cronk - 11/26/2009

Question
QUESTION: I have a dark teak table from Indonesia, not an antique but made to look like one, that had some spots and a ring I needed to darken to match the rest of the table.  A handyman tried using steel wool, but that stain didn't take, and now I'm left with even lighter spots.  I consulted the store, and a man who works for them told me to get teak oil in a dark color and apply multiple coats until the spots darken.  He claimed that teak oil comes in mahogany, walnut, etc., but no store I've tried in the area or online knows anything about that.  The only teak oil in a color I could find was Amazon Blend 55, which has a touch of varnish in it and is primarily made for ships.  I've ordered it anyway, but it would ease my mind to confirm that it's OK to use.  I do have lots of natural teak oil at home -- should I start with that?  Or is there something better to do.

ANSWER: Hi Patricia
Nice to hear from you.
OK..so I have this correct.
The man steel wooled the spots and tried to stain them and it did not work so he no doubt did not remove all the finish down to bare wood.
I would try dark danish oil or tinted Watco oil.
The hardware sells both here.
Its that or totally strip the top and start again.
No harm in trying the easy way first but I would not count on a perfect table top.
If you need the stripping info just ask.
Regards
Eileen



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks, Eileen.  I did get some Watco Danish oil in a dark tint yesterday and am trying that.  I didn't see any other tinted Watco oils, and I'm tempted to order Amazon Blend 55 as well, since I gather that teak oil would be penetrate better.  The Watco Danish oil also contains varnish.  Since the wood is distressed and contains different shades, I'm hoping that oiling will be adequate.  But if not, did you mean that I'd have to strip the whole top of the table?  It's quite a large and elaborate table with inlaid triangular pieces all over, so that would require getting it back to the store (and no doubt huge expense).  Or if stripping just the lightened spots would be feasible, do let me know how that's done.

Answer
Hi again Patricia
I did not realise the table was inlaid but like I said, fully stripping the top will be the only option for you if your fix does not work.
Certainly get the teak oil if you can. Maybe wait till you have it in hand before trying something different.
I am going on the assumption the teak top has an oil finish already. An oil finish is the easiest of all finishes to repair or strip.
It could very well be the case that it has a lacquer finish and repairing that is not for we do it yourselfers as it takes special skills. At that point it will have to go back to the shop.
In any event I am sending the stripping info to you. Its good to have in case you decide on another project down the road.
And will you let me know how it goes with the repair?

INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING FURNITURE
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing, another coat of stripper is often needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND  
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.
Regards
Eileen