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Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Staining Old Oak Cabinets

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QUESTION: I am moving into a house that has solid oak cabinets that are atleast 20 years old.  The cabinets are in good structural condition, I just hate the stain color... So I want to make it darker.  I have heard that OLD oak takes a stain really well, is that true?  I have tested stain on new oak and the results dont look so hot.  

I also need to get about 4 doors replaced, so if they are NEW oak and what I have heard is true, then would the new oak doors stain lighter then the rest of the cabinets?

I have been advised by local hardware store employees that the sanding will be a waste of time, and instead to use a strong wood stripper.  What stripper do you recommend?  Is stripping the finish the best way to go?  Thanks!!

ANSWER: Hi Geoff, stripping is the way to go, but be warned,it may be tough to do. Old Oak does stain easier, but by "old" we're talking 100 year old Oak, Antique wood, not 20 year old cabinets.Pro's use dye stains and pigment stains, and "toning" techniques to get Oak colors like the rich, deep, finishes you see on commercially available cabinets.These are high tech finishes also that will last 20-30 years, and meet KMCA standards for durability and protection. Matching new doors can be tricky, as it's hard to know what the stripped cabinets will look like or stain like, and they probably will take stain differently. Any good stripper should do, but a methylene chloride stripper is probably the best bet on kitchen cabinets. Read, understand, and follow all the precautions and directions on the product. These are quite toxic, but excel at what they do. It's a huge job to do a kitchen though, so be aware of what you're getting into...and have a plan to do the job, established with a test panel,(door or drawer front). Do the whole job from stripping to the final color and finish result you want ,on your test piece, to figure out the procedure, and techniques you'll need to get the job done....and whether or not it's worth it....hope that helps- post back if need be- Greg

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for the response Greg!  One of the other options I've been looking at is a process called "toning"...  Are you familiar with it?  Basically they apply some sort of colorant (paint or enamel or something else, not sure) over the existing stained and varnished surface, then apply a sealer over that.  

I have been told by two painting companies that they dont recommend that, because it doesnt give good results and wears horribly.  Then I have heard through other online resources that its great, and a painter Im talking to really recommends it... saying that a lot of people that have oak cabinets go this route to get rid of the wood grain and make them look more modern.  

Apparently this process is similiar to what furniture manufacturers do...  Any advice?

Thanks,

Geoff

Answer
I did mention "toning" in my post there Geoff...but it's part of the staining-sealing operation and needs to be done BEFORE the topcoats are applied. I also think that you need to be consulting a finisher or furniture restorer about clear finishes, and not a painter....although I'm not trying to disparage your painter...lol. It's just that I've seen a lot of so called "pro" work done by a lot of painters who talked a good game....people do not, as a general rule, have there existing, installed cabinets, completely professionally refinished for a variety of reasons, the most notable being that it just doesn't pay....refacing or replacing the cabinets is much more cost effective, and assures that you won't have some of the associated problems like adhesion issues, wear issues, etc., that come with trying to apply a finish over an older, existing finish.In fact, many finishers won't do it, myself included.The existing finish may well be a catalyzed finish, making it much harder than conventional clear coats, risking adhesion issues, and these types of toning techniques have to be sprayed on in successive coats as well, not something you'll find anyone to do onsite. Now painting, or other types of finishing are definitely a possibility....but again, to get really good, durable results, it is an arduous undertaking and will be quite expensive, with no real guarantee of durability. Here's a link to KraftMaid's site, one of the higher end cabinet companies that do "state of the art" finishing. You'll see the upwards of 15 to 20 individual steps that can be involved in producing a furniture grade finish that is superior in durability and look, and that will last 20-30 years with very little care. This stuff is not the realm of a painter, and requires a high level of technique, skill, and familiarity with finishing products to do. Hope that helps- I'll be here- Greg

http://www.kraftmaid.com/doorsfinishes/index.cfm?navigationid=33900

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Greg Scholl

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Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects, Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings, wood species recognition and usage,tool recommendations, blade types and recommendation,techniques and methods for many Woodworking related issues, etc.

Experience

Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.) Sold, built, serviced, setup Home, Industrial, and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools , provided knowledge, parts replacement, service, and on site service, Trade show Demo, and training as well.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how")

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars from major Tool manufacturers, Skil/Bosch, Delta, Powermatic, Ritter, Porter cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt/B&Decker, Performax.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT. (the Antiques capital of CT.), Golden Age of Trucking Museum, Wilton Historical Society.

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