Expert: Jamie Yocono - 3/13/2009

Question
QUESTION: I'd like to put raised panels under a chair rail in my dining room, I've noticed on new construction that the panels are constructed of a chunkier molding rather than the traditional coves are these moldings specifically made for this application or do I just choose one I like, also is there a standard spacing, based on wall length, etc.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

deb

ANSWER: Hi Deb,

There is a wealth of information about wainscot paneling on the web and in DIY magazines. I felt like I'd recently seen an article about it in Fine Homebuilding, so I did a search and found these two articles. (So much for them being recently published, the dates tell me otherwise!)

From Fine Homebuilding (Issue #165, pp. 82-87)
A Simple Approach to Raised-Panel Wainscot
Stock molding and MDF panels transform a room
by Gary Striegler

Raised-panel wainscot speaks of a time when craftsman had an abundance of skill, and the time to display their talents. With the right materials and information, however, the process can be simplified, making the project much less expensive and far less time-consuming. This article explains how to do just that, as builder Gary Striegler shares his tips for crafting great-looking raised-panel wainscot using MDF, a router table, and the most basic carpentry tools. Detailed instructions and pictorials guide you through the entire process, teaching you how to avoid common problems such as splits, and how to keep installation quick and simple.


Laying out wainscot paneling
Addressing common problems before layout helps ensure a trouble-free installation
by Lynn Hopkins  From Fine Homebuilding (Issue #193, pp. 122-128)

Wood paneling is a beautiful asset to any home, but it can be problematic: Wood moves as temperatures and humidity undergo seasonal changes. Wood paneling built in a rail-and-stile frame, however, can overcome those obstacles, and it additionally creates attractive shadowlines. In this "Drawing Board" column, architect Lynn Hopkins writes about common issues that arise when wainscot paneling is laid out in a room.

If you have access to old Fine Homebuilding magazines, you can look these articles up. They might be at your local library, and the articles are very helpful.  If you'd like to order them, you can go to www.taunton.com, where they have back issues available.

There is some good information on this page (and it's free!):
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/How-To/Chair-Rail-and-Wainscoting/65284.

I recommend reading through a few of these articles, then writing back with specific questions and I'll be happy to help you out. There is a lot to consider, including the length of the wall, the design you're using, and the material. For applications like these, I really recommend thinking about plywood of MDF panels, as there is no contraction/expansion to work around. I've seen walls built where the designer didn't take that into consideration and the whole thing expanded and popped right off the wall! I've seen others that shrunk and there were huge gaps in-between the boards. So you really need to let the wood acclimate well.

Do a little reading and then write back to me, and I'll help you further. Good luck!

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi, Jamie thanks for the references,but I am not doing wainscotting I wanted to give the illusion of with just the moldings on drywall and then paint, you know like a square or rectangles.I just don't know what the proper spacing is or if it's a matter of taste.Would this fall in the catagory of finishing?

Thanks, deb

Answer
Deb,

Sorry I gave you such a long winded answer that wasn't even applicable for what you want to do!  And yes, this might be considered more of a "finishing" question than a woodworking one, but I can help.

You layout should be based on the size of the wall, and the effect you want. So depending on the size of your squares or rectangles, you need to lay them out so that are spaced evenly across the wall. There isn't really a set (or proper) distance, it's whatever effect you want. However, you may run into problems with fasting the pieces of molding to your wall.

I've seen some people put a sheet of 1/4"  or 3/8" plywood on the wall, then drywall over it, then tack the molding into that sandwich. The plywood will give the nails or brads something to grab on to. Just nailing into drywall isn't going to be very durable; it doesn't offer any holding power for those nails.

I strongly suggest you measure and lay out the design on graph paper first, or even use Google's free drawing program, Sketchup. It's free and very useful. Google it and you'll find the download, it's awesome. You don't want to be in the middle of this project and realize you're off by a few inches, which will throw the whole look of the wall off. That would be a mess!

Finally, you might check out some DIY home design websites for more info about this. Try About.com. Good luck,

Jamie in Vegas