Expert: Eileen Cronk - 3/28/2009

Question
QUESTION: I did read your other answers regarding cherry refinishing, but they didn't quite address my issues.  I have a solid cherry kitchen table that was handmade for me about 20 years ago.  I believe it was unstained and the finish was oil/wax.  Over the years it has endured the usual kitchen table abuse and now it is dirty (darkly grayed), has a few strange stains (maybe from cleaning products) and a few scratches.  I'd like to restore the top without dealing with the legs, which are in good shape.  We were thinking of just doing a fine sanding/re-oiling, on the theory that there really isn't any finish to strip -- is this a mistake?  We'd like it to maintain the patina, although we could also let it regain that over time.  On the other hand, I wouldn't mind using a matte poly finish to avoid future damage.  Advice?

ANSWER: Hi Ellen
Nice to hear from you.
My advice would be to use poly as this gives the best protection.
I use Minwax fast drying oil based poly in a satin sheen. It has a lovely mellow look.
In order to apply the poly you must strip everything off the top with paint stripper. Use an MC stripper (ask at the hardware).
This will ensure a good surface to apply the poly to.
It will also remove any wax or oil that may be present.
If you like the look of the top then do not sand.
This will ensure you save the woods patina.
Ellen if you need my info on stripping correctly please ask.
This is the most important step.
And stripping a table top is very easy and not time consuming at all.
In fact it takes less time than sanding.
Regards
Eileen

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: eileen, you had offered to advise me of the best way to properly strip the finish off my cherry table.  I would really appreciate any advice you can give.  Thanks so much.  Ellen

Answer
Hi again Ellen
Glad you decided to go this route as it is the best.
Here are the stripping instructions which apply to your cherry table top.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING ELLENS TABLE TOP
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 quart stripper
1 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing, another coat of stripper may be needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary. If after the stripping you want to sand thats fine it will depend on the degree of damage.
When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax oil stain applied with a rag. The color choice is yours and you may not want stain at all.
Then 3 coats of Minwax oil based fast drying poly in a satin sheen.
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.
And get back to me when necessary
Kind Regards
Eileen