Expert: Eileen Cronk - 3/30/2009

Question
QUESTION: We are in the process of sanding our oak kitchen cabinets to stain them a darker color.  As I am reading posts and answers about this I am now slightly worried this will all turn out horribly.  

We have sanded the old honey oak finish off with 60/80 grit sandpaper, then used 100 grit, and lastly 120.  My question is it necessary to go over it with a higher grit sandpaper?  

We did several different test colors and like the Minwax Antique Walnut Gloss.  The test strip came out beautifully, but if the sanding is not equal on each peice I am worried that each cabinet may look different, or parts of each cabinet may look different.  Any tips?

ANSWER: Hi Rachel
Nice to hear from you.
Its good that you arm yourself with lots of info on doing this.
And I am so glad you are doing your test.
While its best to remove the finish with stripper and not sandpaper, it seems you have gotten your test piece looking as you want it to.
But you are correct to be concerned about the amount of sanding on each piece.
The only way to be absolutely certain of a uniform stain job would be to apply a coat of MC stripper over each sanded piece.
A bit more work for sure but if the finish is sanded off this will ensure even staining.
If this is done you have no worries.
Rachel most folks want to take their oak cabinets and make them look like something else by staining very dark. This cannot be done successfully in most cases.
You on the other hand are keeping the character of the lovely oak and are happy with your sample.
Hope this has reassured you but get back to me if you have more concerns.
Kind Regards
Eileen

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Eileen,
Thank you for your quick response.  Upon working on the test piece I do have a question regarding the application of the stain.  When I wipe off with a rag it seems to take all the color with it.  
Also, upon letting the stain dry over 8 hours I noticed tiny lumps. I used steel wool, like the directions say to and that seems to work on some of them, but also takes most of the shine away.  What are the reasons to wipe stain away upon application and what is the reason for the steel wool?  Can I get away without doing either of those things?  Or, fix the diminishing gloss?
Last thing....I hear all the time not to apply more than two coats.  What is the reason for this?  The directions on the can say it is okay to apply more coats.  What do you think?
Thanks for the tip on the MC Stripper.  
And thanks for the prompt response.  
Rachel

ANSWER: Hi again Rachel
Is this the product you are using?
http://www.minwax.com/products/one_step_stain_and_finishes/polyshades.html
When you talked about staining the cupboards I assumed it was with Minwax walnut oil stain.
I think what it could be is the above product.
Please verify as we are working against each other here LOL.
Regards
Eileen

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Yes, that is what we are using.

Answer
Hi again Rachel
OK..start fresh LOL.
First off anything you have read about staining oak cabinets does not apply to the product you are using.
Next the sanding you have done is all thats required before applying the Polyshades.
This Polyshades is not stain. Its finish that has color suspended in it (thats the best description I have).
That covers your first letter.
In your second letter you say you wiped off the Polyshades with a rag. Thats not what you do.
You apply Polyshades with a brush, let it dry, lightly sand and apply a second coat.
A third coat can be added but test three coats on your test piece as I doubt you will like it.
The tiny lumps could be air bubbles or sanding dust.
Use a tack cloth to remove sanding dust before applying Polyshades and do not use foam applicators to apply polyshades or you will get air bubbles.
So to recap: Rachel you are not staining your cupboards. You are sanding and applying a finish which just happens to have color in it.
Get back to me if needed
Regards
Eileen