Expert: Greg Scholl - 4/27/2009

Question
QUESTION: I am refinishing a dresser and it has become a never-ending project. I started
by sanding the old paint, then priming / sanding / painting / sanding /
painting / sanding…. I am using Rustoleum Painters Touch spray paint (and
the primer that goes with it). I just finished a rocking chair with the same
product and it turned out beautifully. But I am having a problem with the
paint for the dresser. (for the rocking chair I used a semi-gloss black, I am
using a satin heirloom white for the dresser). Every now and then the paint
starts spraying out a different color and texture, it gets really dark and thick
like I am spraying sawdust on to the wood, (I have used this product quite a
bit and never had this problem and the primer went on beautifully) I have
tried everything, shaking more, shaking less and I have used at least 8 cans
and of this particular color they all have this problem, I think it must be a
defect with this particular color.
Anyways I cannot get the final coat to end up smooth, but I like the color and
don’t want to start over.  The paint is on thick enough and I have sanded the
top coat with 800 grit sandpaper, it is soft and smooth it just has a rather
“sanded” look instead of “finished” look, I am going for satin, or semi-gloss
would be ok. I tried using 0000 steel wool to finish and it was leaving a grey
residue on the white, no matter how smooth I sand I still get the residue and
I was unable to wash it off. Any tips for making this project look finished
without having to keep spraying and sanding and hoping to get lucky with a
smooth finish? Thanks!!



ANSWER: Hi Kate, odd problem you're having with the aerosols, perhaps it is something with this certain batch or color....it sprays out a different color?? You always need to shake well, (at least 1 minute), and while spraying as well, to keep the product thoroughly mixed. Also, as I'm sure you're aware, technique has everything to do with getting a smooth finish. You have to apply a thick enough coat to flow out and therefore not be rough, but not too much where you can have pooling, runs, drips, etc....it's a fine line. Another problem is that all paint manufacturers have been forced to reformulate their products over the last year or so to comply with new VOC regulations. Unfortunately, the VOC's (voloatile organic compounds), are the things that makes finishes level and flow out, and form a smooth even film, and this has definitely changed the products for the worse. I have also been experiencing this. The steel wool residue is probably an oil/metal residue, one reason to use Scotchbrite instead of steel wool, especially important on ANY waterborne finish. Try wiping down with a clean rag and some mineral spirits to remove the residue. I also Like Krylon better than the Painter Touch products.The answer to your issue might be to apply a clear Satin Acrylic urethane over your paint finish. It will not only even out the smoothed finish and give it an overall even sheen, but it gives durability and wash-ability to the finish.Hope that helps a bit- post back if need be- Greg

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for your quick response!
It was an odd problem, I was shaking and mixing so much that I began to
wonder if I was over shaking! I really think it was just that particular color or
finish because I have used this product a lot and never had that problem. Will
try the Krylon next time though.
Is there a particular Acrylic urethane product that you would recommend? I
would prefer a spray version if there is one that will go on smoothly. On the
Krylon website I found an "Acrylic crystal clear satin spray" would this work?
Thanks again!

Answer
Hi Kate, that Krylon Clear is a Gloss finish I believe, so it wouldn't be a good choice, (unless you WANT a Gloss).....Minwax sells the PolyCrylic in spray cans, and they have a Satin finish choice.......these are tricky to spray evenly, but they dry better than they go on.....meaning that you'll find they don't flow on as evenly as other aerosol products, but they dry out nicely, so don't be overly concerned about getting a perfect "wet" film when applying them.....experiment a little first on an area or drawer front....the real problem with aerosol cans, in my opinion, is that they really only spray well for the first half to 2/3 of the can....and you can't "over" shake them...so don't worry about that. I like Absolute Coatings Last 'n Last Acrylic Urethanes, I've been using them for years, and feel they're a better, more professional choice, and they can be catalyzed as well. they can be brushed, padded, and sprayed, (with spray equipment), and produce a clear, hard, even finish. I use Pad painters to apply the product on larger areas,(NOT the disposable type as they tend to shed their bristles), and a good synthetic brush like the Purdy angled sash brush. There is a product locator on their site, and an 800 number...they're nice people- Best of luck- Greg

http://www.polycare.net/CDucwf.html#