Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Veneer repair; is this piece worth it
Expert: Eileen Cronk - 4/22/2009
QuestionQUESTION: I garbage picked a Lane burled walnut art deco cedar chest, circa 1930's. Its exterior needs work. The front has missing veneer in two places(2"/2" & 1"/1") and the top is surface scrached. The interior is perfect with original lock and stickers. Is this something I should try to fix or have someone fix or put it out for garbage?
ANSWER: Hi Christine
Nice to hear from you.
Sounds like you are a girl after my own heart. I would have garbage picked too LOL.
First thing you must do is check the lock.
It could very well be that the lock on your chest is a recall. They are deadly. Please read the following.
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml96/96186.html
It tells you how to check your lock.
As for repairing the chest. Certainly try.
These old chests are lovely when restored.
If I had a picture I could help more.
Kind Regards
Eileen
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: This is the damage, Thanks Eileen
ANSWER: Hi again Christine
Thanks for the picture.
This is easily repaired after stripping the old finish off (it needs it).
I would simply fill with a walnut colored wood filler. After it dries well sand nicely.
I choose walnut colored filler because the wood will be dark after stripping.
Did you need my full info for stripping and finishing?
This will be a great first project if you have never done this before.
And did you check the lock?
Eileen
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I knew about the dangers of the lock through my research on the chest. Thanks for the info maybe ill give it a try. Yes info on stripping would help.Thanks Christine
AnswerHi again Christine
Here are the stripping instructions
First check the entire chest over and make sure there is no loose veneer. I know you have chipped areas but these are filled after the stripping. If there is any loose veneer it must be glued back down before any stripping is attempted. Use carpenters glue and then clamp till the glue is dry. Don't worry about getting glue on the surface of the chest. The paint stripper will take it right off.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING FURNITURE
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN
MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing, another coat of stripper is often needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary.
When the stripping is complete, do your filling of the chipped areas then stain with Minwax oil stain in Special Walnut color applied with a rag, then 3 or 4 coats of low lustre tung oil also applied with a rag.
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear and don't hesitate to get back to me if you run into problems.
Regards
Eileen