Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/table top refinish

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Question
QUESTION: I just bought a "new" floor model dining table with dark espresso finish over
mahogany
wood (1/4'' veneer I'm told).  It has lots of superficial scratches and a 2'' long
crack in the
veneer that is very slightly raised.   How can I refinish the top with minimal
effort?  I'm
pretty sure the finish is lacquer.  Can I use something like repair lacquer
spray?   When I
have built small furniture in the past, I have trouble with dust particles in my
finish even
when I use an enclosed space.  Any hints?  Thank you very much for your
help.

ANSWER: Hi Steve
Nice to hear from you.
First the veneer must be repaired. It sounds like it has lifted slightly and this must be glued back down and clamping or weights applied till the glue dries. This could be relatively easy or very difficult depending where the crack is located. Use a thin flexible blade of some kind to get glue under the veneer. If it really is 1/4 inch veneer it will make the repair easy (but I'm kind of doubting it).
Your table will be lacquer for sure.
Steve I have never used lacquer repair spray but my understanding of it is its used after a repair to blend the edges of the repair into the original finish.
I think I would lean toward a coat of lacquer over the entire top if the scratches are only superficial as you say or a rubbing compound and a waxing (sight unseen but just giving you some thoughts here).
Or what about a tiny test with just wax. Just rub a bit over a scratch to see what happens.
Steve even when we breath in our finishing space we are creating air which causes dust to rise (or so it seems).
So we have to create a dust free place as well as we can but its not easy.
My only hint would be to really check your brush. Even a new brush can be loaded with dust that we don't see.
Hold your brush with the bristles up and directed accross a light source.
Then run your hand through the bristles bending and letting go and look at the dust show..its pretty bad. This is mostly what gets into our finish if everything else is fairly dust free.
Hope this helps
Get back if needed
Eileen
PS..forgot about the tiny crack. One of those wax filler sticks would work after all the repairs are done. Get them at the hardware.
Come in many colors.



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks Eileen.  Great advice.  I appreciate it.  
The "crack" in the veneer is actually a "buckle" only 2 inches long from one of the edges.  May be best to leave it alone.  I thought I might use a blade to scratch it (to level it) and then fill it in and refinish.
I think you had a great idea about the rubbing compound and the wax.  So there are waxes for kitchen tables?  Anything you've used that works great for moisture?
Also, when I make other furniture, any hints on keeping a dust free environment when I spray the finish?  Do you do something afterwards to make the finish glassy?
Thanks, Steve

Answer
Hi again Steve
Hopefully the buckle will glue and clamp down. Thats the very best repair. Scratching it level is a pretty dangerous fix as you could end up in a bigger mess unless the veneer is truly 1/4 inch thick.
Just be sure the 1/4 inch is not a whole bunch of really thin layers.
Steve the next part of your question about "waxes for kitchen tables" really made me chuckle. In your first letter you called this a dining table and to this country girl a dining table was used on Sundays and only if it was covered with a heavy table cloth. Mother dutifully waxed or polished it every week and it sat there looking beautiful for the other 6 days.
Our kitchen table on the other hand would not do too well with wax.
So forget what I said about waxing LOL I misunderstood your words.
I would apply another coat of lacquer.
The same rules apply to spraying a finish as with brushing on a finish..you need a dust free place to work.
I never rely solely on a tack cloth to remove dust before finishing.
I run my bare hand over the surface. Try this yourself. Its absolutely amazing how sensitive the palm of our hand is to minute particles on a surface (a clean grease free hand of course).
You say you use an enclosed place (painting parlor of sorts I guess), keep it closed off completely when you are not using it.
I do nothing after applying the last coat of finish to make it look glassy. Have you ever used Minwax fast drying oil based poly in a high gloss..its glassy believe me. It also shows ever finger mark LOL but if you want that look try it.
Nice talking with you Steve and keep me posted.
Regards
Eileen  

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Eileen Cronk

Expertise

Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

Experience

I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

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