Expert: Eileen Cronk - 6/3/2009

Question
QUESTION: Hi Eileen.
In 1990 we bought oak kitchen cabinets from Eastland Kitchens, New Brunswick, Canada.  Selected "golden oak classic" finish with solid 3/4" frames and doors.  The finish has yellowed and they have water marks? above the stove and discoloration above the oven, etc..  We want to upgrade our kitchen and I feel it would be least expensive to refinish, as long as I could expect a quality result.  I have some patience and would not be afraid of some work, as long as it was not going to take me forever.  I am a bit of a handyman and would disassemble these modular units to carry into our garage for work.

The doors have profiling? and I would prefer to maintain 90 degree edges, rounded surface areas, etc..  I would normally sand anything that has a flat surface (I am sure you will tell me different).

Will I be able to remove the complete finish (including the stain) to bare wood on all of the surfaces?  Do you feel this would be too much work and time?  Or should I just try to remove the protective surfaces to the original stain?  I am thinking of changing the cabinet color (perhaps a bit darker) although I want to see the wood grain.  I am thinking that a darker finish may not yellow and would hide some areas I may not be able to prepare perfectly.

Pleased give me your best recommendation for product selection, preparation and finishing application.

Yours truly.

Mark

ANSWER: Hi Mark
Nice to hear from you.
Yes this will be a really big job but well worth the effort I feel.
You will likely be able to go a bit darker if you follow my instructions and refrain from sanding which will only remove the natural darkening the oak has done over the last 18 years plus leave tiny scratch marks which will not be noticed until the top coat is applied.
You will use an MC paint remover to remove all the finish.
But Mark do yourself a big favor and do a test door to completion.
Strip it, stain it and apply your poly.
I believe I read this tip a long while ago in one of Greg Scholl's answers and it sure makes sense.
If you pick the biggest door and clock your time it will also give you a good idea of how long the entire job will take.
My estimate is 40 hours if its just a standard size kitchen. Really not that long in a working mans life.
Here are my complete instructions which include product selections and finish appl. as you request.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING FURNITURE
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper (it will take more but start with one)
6 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections. A few doors or drawers at a time.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing (likely lacquer), another coat of stripper is often needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND
When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax stain applied with a rag (in this case Mark I would use Minwax oil stain in Special Walnut color.) You will need a quart.
Let the stain dry overnight.
Then apply two coats of poly.
Water based poly does not yellow over time like oil based does but personally in this case (because you are going darker),I would use Minwax fast drying oil based poly in a satin sheen.
You likely know the poly brush must be of the highest quality. Expect to pay around $12.00 for your angled brush. Ask for the correct angled brush for the poly you are using (water or oil).
A final word..do your test door and don't hesitate to get back to me if you have difficulty.
And be advised, you may not be able to stain the wood as dark as you want and the existing finish may be hard to remove. TEST TEST BEFORE.
Regards
Eileen

Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Eileen.  Thank you for your quick response.  I am excited to have your recommendation and plan to execute to the letter.

Question:
You said ... "You will use an MC paint remover ...".  I do not know what MC means, however, is this the Circa 1850 "Soft Strip" paint and varnish remover or may I use the Circa 1850 "Furniture Stripper" removes old paint, varnish, urethane and lacquer?  Or is it something else?

In trying to determine what "MC" was, I happened across "swingpaints.com" where they gave an overview of choosing the right stripper.  On that site, the furniture stripper had the better rating for polyurethane, varnish, lacquer and speed over the soft strip.  The soft strip had the better rating for interior (I will remove to garage).  I like the idea of speed, I believe that would permit me to have more time for finer preparation or finish details.

Yours truly.

Mark

Answer
Hi again Mark
MC strippers are the strongest you can buy.
MS stands for "methyl chlorene" (spelling is likely off LOL).
This is not the Circa soft strip. Use the one that says "Circa 1850 "Furniture Stripper" removes old paint, varnish, urethane and lacquer?"  
There is a picture of it in the link in my first letter.
This is available at most hardware stores in Canada.
Circa also makes a stripper in a white can that says "Heavy Body paint and varnish remover". This too is an mc stripper and is fine to use.
If you have Home hardware in your area, their house brand comes in an MC.
There is no problem getting an MC stripper in Canada.
Speed is the key when stripping. I agree with you there.
Write any time you need help or run into a problem.
I am over in Ontario just North of TO.
Regards
Eileen