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Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/chipping dining room table - help!

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Question
I have a 1 year old dining room table that has a tendency to chip, especially
when water (from a glass) is left on the table. I believe the table's material is
rubber tree wood. The chips are fairly shallow and I have recently restored
these blemishes to the correct color (approximately) using "Old English
Scratch Cover for Dark Woods." I also have a few swollen areas - I assume
these are where water has swollen the wood. Assuming that these swollen
areas aren't a huge deal and that I am happy with the color of the repaired
chips, I would like to 1) restore a shine to these chipped areas as the rest of
the table has a sort of glossy finish and 2) ensure that my table can resist
normal wear and tear such as water/eating on it. Is there any way I can
accomplish these things on my own or will I need to
sand/repaint/lacquer/wax etc. which I am unwilling to do? I have a can of
polyurethane but am unsure about applying this as a friend told me it is a
little sticky/tacky on a table surface. What do you suggest?

Answer
Hello Sam, in this situation a strip and refinish is really the best course of action. These tables usually come with an extremely thin factory finish, and Rubberwood is notorious for swelling and not holding stains/finishes well. If the surface is stick/tacky, it could be just food/dirt/grime, or it could be that the existing finish is breaking down. Any sort of temporary measure would be just that, temporary. I would not try to apply anything over a damaged and failing finish, it will just slightly prolong the inevitable....if you're not familiar with finishing techniques, I would call in a Pro to evaluate it with you and they should offer that at no cost. It may not be that expensive to have refinished professionally. If you're deadset on doing this yourself, then the first order of business would be to take some mineral spirits and some 0000 steel wool and thoroughly clean the table surface, drying with clean rags as you go, rubbing in long overlapping strokes with a wet pad of steel wool. This will likely clean the top really well, but will also likely remove the scratch cover. After drying for an hour or so, take your best fingernail, and press it into the finish along an edge some where and see if the finish feels soft, and again in the most worn part of the finish. If the finish won't resist your fingernail, or feels gummy and/or soft, then it need to come off. I'm assuming this table is stained darker than the normal light straw color of Rubberwood, so this will be the next issue if you want to try saving the existing finish...post back and I'll try to help further- Greg


I'm a little unsure as to why you would give me an 8 for "helpfulness", and yet nominate me as Vol. of the month...but in any event, it sounds like your tables finish is degraded to a point that it would not be wise to try to coat over it ....it will just make it worse if the underlying finish is soft or compromised...while you stated you're "not willing" to go as far as I am suggesting, when a finish is damaged with raised areas, missing color, and other signs of failure, there really are very few choices if you really want to fix it, and I'm really here to give you the correct answer when possible.... I'm not sure how I could have been more helpful, but I would take any critique you might want to give out........regards- Greg

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Greg Scholl

Expertise

Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects, Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings, wood species recognition and usage,tool recommendations, blade types and recommendation,techniques and methods for many Woodworking related issues, etc.

Experience

Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.) Sold, built, serviced, setup Home, Industrial, and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools , provided knowledge, parts replacement, service, and on site service, Trade show Demo, and training as well.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how")

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars from major Tool manufacturers, Skil/Bosch, Delta, Powermatic, Ritter, Porter cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt/B&Decker, Performax.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT. (the Antiques capital of CT.), Golden Age of Trucking Museum, Wilton Historical Society.

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