Expert: Joseph G. Swallow - 8/1/2009

Question
QUESTION: I can find lots of descriptions for installing balusters for post-to-post systems, but nothing on pin-tops. What is the right way to install Pin-top balusters?  Before or after the rail is in place?

Some pin-top balusters have a bottom peg as well as a pin top which is the equivalent of a peg. How could one install such a baluster AFTER the rail is in place? The total length of the baluster, including peg ends, would be greater than the separation between tread and railing.

My contractor wants to cut so that after the bottom peg is in place, only 1/4th inch excess remains at the top. He says he can then bend the baluster enough to pop into place. This may be possible, but seems inconsistent with what I've read about pin-top balusters being stronger.


ANSWER: Ken,

The answer is easy.  In staircase or balustrade is pretty basic and simple.  First, the newels and rail must be installed, or it becomes a nightmare to install.   With the handrail installed and in place, lay out your balusters on the floor.  Plumb up to the bottom of the handrail (I always did a light pencil mark on the side of the rail), then use a square to find the center.  Use a spade/paddle bit.  Most pin top balusters turn down to a 5/8".  Therefore your paddle bit would be 5/8".  With the pint pressed into your center mark you can begin drilling.  If the rail is at a pitch, you can start the drilling at an angle.  Once it bites you can straighten the bit and visually align it with a window or door casing to know that you are drilling plumb.  You don't have to go more than 1" in dept, or to the should of the paddle bit.  Once you are finished with the hole, you'll have a 3/4" hole at the floor for the.  Set the baluster into the hole at the floor and hold it plumb to the side of the handrail.  Mark the pin about 3/8" to 1/2" above the bottom of the handrail.  That would be your cut mark.  Once that has been achieved, you can push the pin up into the handrail deep enough to clear the dowel on the floor, and then twist down into place on a small bead of glue around the 3/4" hold.  You may then use a brad nailer to shoot one nail just below the pin into the handrail.  You're done!  This usually gives you a full 1/2" dowel into the floor and about 3/8" dowel into the handrail.

Let me know if this helps.  If not, give me a call at 800-692-6996.

Thank you!

Joseph G. Swallow

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Joseph,

Thanks! I just need one clarification:

Since the baluster cannot be perfectly vertical and therefore misaligned with the hole in the rail when you first insert it in the rail, a tight fit between top of baluster and hole in rail is not helpful. Is the nature of the drilling and the characteristics of pin-top balusters such that there will automatically be enough slack to insert the baluster, even at an angle initially?

(I do realize that a paddle bit makes a somewhat sloppy hole, but I've never tried one on Hard Maple - my rail )

For most of my treads, I can start the insertion with the bottom of the baluster off to the side past the end of the tread ( into thin air ). For the top few, the treads will abut a wall and I would need to start the insertion with bottom of the baluster off of the front of the tread - but this will present a much sharper angle at the initial insertion. An obvious 'solution' would be to make those balusters a little shorter, so that your 3/8" final baluster-rail intersection becomes 1/8".  But this does not sound like a very good solution.

Thanks again!
Ken


Answer
Ken,

You'll find, once the baluster is trimmed, the "misalignment" is not an issue, nor is it difficult, but rather is an easy insert to put the pin into the handrail hole, lifting it up into the 5/8" hole until the turned dowel on the baluster clears the floor; then the baluster can be twisted down on a bed of glue.   

When I was young I was involved in production stair installation for subdivisions or tract homes in Southern California.  We were always looking for "ease of install" and "speed", along with with a quality finished product.  Once I was installing a custom home and I got wind that the carpenters next door were also installing a stair and that they were having severe problems and wanted my advise.  They were installing the balusters first and trying to set the handrail down on top of them.  They had been at it since early morning and it was now early afternoon and they were not even close to having accomplished anything.  I had them install the rail, drill out the holes and trim the balusters as I had described and they actually got the job done within hours.

Regarding paddle bits, if properly sharp, do not make sloppy holes.   With hard maple they key is, keep a sharp paddle bit.  It will go smooth.  Once the holes are drill you can use an orbital sander under the handrail to clean off any burrs before the baluster installation begins.

For the installation, sample your first baluster exactly as I described.  If you need to, you can always trim another 1/8" off until you can easily make the insertion.  Try and keep 1/4" minimum to 3/8" of pin into the handrail.