Expert: Greg Scholl - 7/29/2009

Question
QUESTION: Hi there, we purchased birch colored countertops from Ikea because we loved the color - very very light with just a slight tinge of yellow, otherwise almost white.

I used Waterlox on it, and it completely changed color.  It didn't expect it to change that much, and now I need to sand it off because it does not go with my kitchen.  Is there a product you can recommend that would not change the color of the bare wood at all?  Someone said acrylic waterborne urethane, but said that spot repair on that finish is very difficult.  What are your thoughts?  And if you do recommend the same thing, any brands in particular?

thanks so much!

ANSWER: Hi Lisa, anything that wets the wood will change it's color, even the waterborne urethanes....but they will be the lightest. The problem is that the urethanes are a surface finish that sits on the wood while the Waterlox is a penetrating oil/varnish finish that does just that. It penetrates and dries from within, making it a good choice and easily recoatable and repairable.After 5 or more thin coats, though, it will start to "build" like a conventional varnish. Any surface finish will be more difficult to repair, and the thicker it is, the more difficult it is to do so. Also, sanding Waterlox off is a lot more difficult than using a stripper on it. As it's a penetrating finish, you'll have to sand off wood to remove it. Try some Citristrip on it and that will strip it all off, then wash with mineral spirits, then after that dries thoroughly, a warm water and dish soap scrub. Then a light sanding and you're ready for the desired finish.Penetrating finishes leave the wood looking more like natural wood, with a Satin finish and the natural wood beauty showing. A surface finish will look more like finished wood, and will be more prone to scratches, chipping, flaking, etc., especially on a work surface like a counter. You can get a catalyzed Acrylic urethane, and apply it in thin coats. I have used that on the Ikea Beech counters, but you need to be really careful and attentive as to wear and damage, so you can lightly sand and recoat before any water damage/discoloration happens.But you're limited in the amount you apply before the film thickness becomes rather thick, (starting to look like a cabinet finish), and it becomes more fragile as well. The WaterLox is a great product, but if it's objectionable to you, you'll have to consider the Acrylic urethanes and the upkeep and maintanence issues, as well as the different look of the finish. Absolute Coatings has an Acrylic Urethane that can be used with or without the catalyst, but it's not easy to find, and all these companies have been busy reformulating their products as of late top meet the new VOC standards and to incorporate the latest waterborne technologies, so check with them about the latest products. They have a dealer locater on their site. Hope that helps- post back if need be- regards- Greg

http://www.lastnlast.com/UltraClearWoodFinish.php

http://www.citristrip.com/

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: thanks so much for the fast response!  what do you think about using a white picking stain (minwax) on first after I sand them again?  And then putting on the waterlox again after?  (of course this time i will make sure to do a test area myself!)

Answer
You can certainly try that, just remember that the Waterlox is a penetrating finish, and the stain coat will partially seal the surface inhibiting the absorption of the Waterlox. Also, the Waterlox is non toxic when fully cured....not sure about the Minwax, but it might be.The great thing about most finishing products is....you can always start over......