Expert: Greg Scholl - 9/6/2009

Question
QUESTION: On 6/14/2008 you answered the question "Split in butcher block counter top".  In that case the counter had already been oiled, so there was no way to close up the crack.  I have a counter that I'm just about done building, and I fear I may have let one piece get too dried out, because I have have two splits that appeared, starting at an edge.  What is my best option for re-joining, or at least stopping the splitting from continuing?  Thank you.

ANSWER: Hi Erik, were you sure to use properly dried material? What species wood are you using, Maple?

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QUESTION: It is Birch.  The butcher block itself was manufactured.  I have taken large sheets and cut to size, made custom bullnoses and mated, and mated the larger pieces to create L-shaped counters, etc.  One of the pieces that I am working on required mating to another in a fairly tricky spot, so it took a lot of marking, cutting, testing the accuracy, making adjusting cuts and so on, has started to separate on one end.  Two cracks in seams started at an edge, and I am trying to figure out how to stop/rejoin them as it was a real pain to get this piece properly cut.  Would hate to have to toss it and start over.  Thanks.

ANSWER: There aren't many choices, you'll have to fill the cracks with some type of filler. Are the counters located in the space where they'll be installed? If so, I'd wait at least a week for them to acclimate to their environment...it might be that they were stored somewhere where they were allowed to absorb too much moisture for a while, and now they're shrinking back....and if that happens too rapidly it can cause cracking or checking......then use a polyester resin filler or a two part epoxy, under filling the top of the splits slightly( mask them off with Blue tape while filling), to allow the use of a latex or cellulose filler for the exposed area which will be more stainable or camouflage-able. If you have sanding dust from sanding the Birch, you can also mix that with some white glue to make a filler for the exposed areas of the splits,but it needs to be extremely fine dust. What finish are you going to use? Are these unfinished? If so it's important to finish these slabs on all sides, especially the end grain, sink and other cut out edges, and the bottom.Hope that helps a little- post back if need be.....Greg

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QUESTION: Thanks Greg.  What's weird is that this piece was very well acclimated to the space it's being used in (many weeks) because I didn't want to experience any warping or splitting after assembly.  But after I started working on this particular one, it happened anyway.  I will use the method you suggest to fill and bind the splits together.  Was trying to push the splits back together with some pipe clamps, but that doesn't close them at all.  They came unfinished.  I am using a Waterlox sealer on the bottoms of the counters, and the edges that won't be accessible.  On the tops, and the edges that are accessible, allowing periodic application, I am using a wood treatment oil that has a tung and linseed oil base.  It produces a nice mellow, non-shiny, finish.

Answer
Hi Erik, I definitely would not try to close any cracks with force, as it won't work, and as I said, it's possible that the Block was not stored carefully before you got it...Also I would use Waterlox on the whole project, the "original satin" will produce a finish that is quite flat to Satin in gloss level,(20-25% gloss level) and any Linseed oil in a mixture can darken over time. Waterlox is a modified Tung oil blend and is an excellent choice for the whole job.....won't darken or be susceptible to water spotting like the Linseed oils, and can be reapplied when needed as well.It's also non toxic when fully cured.I would do at least 3 coats, the first coat being brushed on heavily, allowed to sit and then wiped off ...with 18-24 hrs between successive coats.Regards- Greg

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