Expert: Greg Scholl - 8/2/2009

Question
QUESTION: Hello Greg, Hope all is well since last time I spoke to you about the warped cabinet doors in Greenwich. They want me to build all the exterior mahogany gates and here is my question, can I start with a 3/4 marine plywood & with 2" thick x 4" wide outside edges routed to except the plywood and mitered at the corners and pinned with a decorative plug, and then laminate 1/2" pieces of 4 0r 5" mahogany horizontally across the plywood panel with a slight v between the pieces? Should I T&G the pieces in case they shrink the panel won't be visible underneath? And what glue should I use that will be strong so the panels will never delaminate? I never got your email yet. Send it via my email  I might even have work for you on high end stuff that I don't feel comfortable doing yet myself so please send my your contact info. I am right in Shelton and grew up in Stratford. Thanks Greg,  Mike Wilson

ANSWER: Hey Mike, sorry I didn't leave my contact info, been back and forth to my summer cottage in Maine the past few weeks dealing with some major rebuilding up there.....how did your class up there go?? A good Construction adhesive would probably be a good choice, but there isn't a glue that will last forever, and in a situation like this, those 1/2"x5" pieces should be allowed to float, if possible, some how to allow for movement, and the overlap (ship lap or T&G), is also a good idea, as they will constantly be shrinking and swelling with the environment.The other issue will be strength of the gates, how big are they going to be? Mitered corners with a pin will give you little strength for a large panel like that,and will transfer all the force to the top hinge side of the construction.... ideally, a pegged mortise and tenoned frame would be much stronger, (maybe even with a diagonal member from top corner to bottom, that could be on the back side). Gates like these will take a lot of stress, weather, etc.,( not to mention just their own weight), and they will need to be really well made to last....I'll drop by your site again, can you drop me a link? From the looks of it, our skill levels aren't that different, the work represented on your site is really high quality, and of an advanced nature, (especially that tray ceiling and Billiard room you did!) but I'd always be happy to help if I can. Post back- regards- Greg

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QUESTION: Hi Greg, Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Pl400 I figured, or polyurethene waterproof glue no? I didn't want to put any diangonal pieces even on the back, that is why I thought of the 3/4 marine grade plywood as the core for the panel. Seeing how its not a solid wood panel I can lock it into the dadoed rail & Style and not worry about it cracking because I didn't allow it to float, correct? I thought that if I did a rail & style either butted or mitred, I would pin through the plywood core into the corners of the rail and style with wood dowels to lock the rail, style, and panel to make it one solid square glued and pegged that could never sag as long as it couldn't come loose, correct? And how could it come loose being pegged through the plywood core correct?
Now as far as the mahogany 1/2x 4 or 6 running horizontally, I thought I would T&g or shiplap as you said and also relieve the but ends with a v and a small reveal for expansion but glue them to the core 3/4 marine plywood and then seal the entire gate with 2 or 3 coats of Sikens, No? With the proper maintinence it shouldn't sag or come apart, no? The gates are only going to be approx 3' wide by 4 or 5' tall. Do you think my system will hold up? and if not explain for me please. You have much more experience with the wood itself and the natural characteristics than me.
www.mikewilson-customcarpentry-design.com    
Thank You Greg  ps. I start the clinic in Maine Aug 24 through Sept. two weeks I can't wait.

Answer
Hey Mike, when you said "gates", I guess I envisioned something like a driveway gate.....something a lot bigger, sorry...lol. What you're outlining sounds good for these smaller gates...I always hesitate to recommend trying to glue solid wood to a substrate like this when it will be exposed to New England's harsh environment though, because as you are aware, the solid wood will always move somewhat...as Mahogany is very "up to the task", your logic sounds good, and the adhesive to seal the plyed panel and any gaps would be fine. I would still consider trying to incorporate the "butt" ends of the horizontal pieces into the styles with a rabbetted end,( like a half tenon and you could still use the "v" for the visual effect) and like wise with the upper and lower edges, and use less or even no adhesive with those,(or even blind nail them with an 18guage Gal. finish nail [Paslode, Porter Cable, etc.]) especially if they're only going to be 3' across....that will allow for the maximum amount of movement, without showing what's underneath.....but I realize it adds a bit to the machining too.... I'm excited for you for the Maine clinic, can't wait to hear about it...I'll stop by the website and leave you my email- regards- Greg