Expert: Jamie Yocono - 11/8/2010

Question
QUESTION: Are lock miter joints ok to use for joining the all four sides of a 48 x 20 x 20 chest?

ANSWER: Hi Al,

Yes, locking miter joints are a good choice for gluing up a chest. The joint will help keep everything aligned while you clamp it. I recommend band (or strap) clamps for putting it together.

It's easy to install a bottom in the chest by cutting a dado on all four sides, about an inch up from the bottom. You can use solid wood for the bottom, but frankly, plywood is a better choice, as it doesn't expand or contract as much as solid wood. I've even seen aromatic cedar, which would be nice, if the chest is going to be used for clothing or blankets.

Hope this helps, write back if you need more info.

Jamie in Vegas,


____________
Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com
My woodworking blog: www.wooditis.blogspot.com





---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks to your reply, I have decided to proceed with the project.  However, I am having difficulty cutting the lock miter joints, mostly on the piece that is held vertically.  I am using 3/4 pine 7 inches wide (where the miter will be cut) and I am getting kickback and it is destroying the cut.  I am taking small cuts - about 6 passes for the 3/4 in stock.  The router is a Bosch in a Bosch table with a new, good bit with 1/2 in shank.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Al

ANSWER: Al,

There are a few router books out there that might be able to help  alleviate this problem. What I like to do is put the router table on a lower table, so that most of my weight is above the wood. Applying force down is helpful when routing the end grain. It's so much harder than edge grain, that may be part of the problem.

Also, I like to run a piece of scrap wood behind the good piece you are routing. That way, the tearout occurs on the scrap piece, not the good piece.  

Featherboards and other hold down devices go a long way to helping you with this procedure, too. Rockler is having a big sale on hold-downs right now.

If you're having to take about 6 cuts to route a 3/4" board, something sounds wrong. Are you sure your bit is sharp? Can you touch up the cutting edge with a stone, to put a better edge on it?

That's about all I can think of. Good luck, write back if you need more help.

Jamie

____________
Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com
My woodworking blog: www.wooditis.blogspot.com




---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Again, thanks for your response.  Since your last reply I have carefully checked all alignments (fence, bit setting, etc.), have purchased an additional featherboard and observed your advice.  Still, the same problem - kickback and destruction of the groove.  The bit is a new MLCS 7849 lock miter bit with a 1/2 in. shank.  I would think it should be sharp enough.  I am at a loss at this point.  Any additional help will be apprecited.
Al

Answer
Al,

I am not sure what could be the problem, although I know routing end grain is really problematic. Is there any chance you could either send me a couple of photos of what's happening? Or how about a short video? Most digital cameras can take videos. Can you get someone to film you while you're routing with that bit set-up, and send it to me? Without a little more info, I'm not sure I can help you out.

Send the pics or the video to my personal e-mail address:

jamie@wooditis.com

Try not to make the video too long - maybe under a minute, or it will be too hard to up-and-download. But it would really be helpful in solving your problem.

Will wait to hear from you,

Jamie in Vegas


____________
Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com
My woodworking blog: www.wooditis.blogspot.com