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Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/applying latex stain over unfinished oak

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Expert: - 2/22/2010


Question
After applying the latex stain,the surface of the oak was quite rough, the fibres of the wood had raised, and it was too rough to go on and apply the polyurethane.  So I sanded it down, but some color is still into the wood.  I read somewhere, that oak should be wet to raise the grain & fibres, than sand when dry, and then apply the latex stain.  If this is so, could I now just apply the latex stain again.  Will it raise the fibres again ?

Answer
Hey Wayne, it depends on how fine you sanded as well...typically on Oak you would want to sand to about 180 grit, and then swiftly wipe down the wood with clean water,let dry, and then sand lightly one last time...but use of a sanding sealer or a wash coat of dewaxed shellac can also be a valuable weapon, as this causes the raised fibers to harden, and then be 'cut' off with the next sanding,(using something like 320-400), resulting in a smoother surface...I'm not sure what stain you're using, I'm not familiar with "latex" stain except in an outdoor product...perhaps you mean a waterborne product...and when working with any waterborne stain it's imperative to stain quickly....and don't let the stain sit as you would with an oil based stain. You build color strength with multiple thin coats, sometimes utilizing a few different stains or types of stains, in conjunction with sealer coats.Any waterborne finishing product has more capacity to raise the grain, so proper planning and technique is important...please feel free to post back if need be- regards-Greg

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Greg Scholl

Expertise

Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects, Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings, wood species recognition and usage,tool recommendations, blade types and recommendation,techniques and methods for many Woodworking related issues, etc.

Experience

Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.) Sold, built, serviced, setup Home, Industrial, and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools , provided knowledge, parts replacement, service, and on site service, Trade show Demo, and training as well.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how")

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars from major Tool manufacturers, Skil/Bosch, Delta, Powermatic, Ritter, Porter cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt/B&Decker, Performax.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT. (the Antiques capital of CT.), Golden Age of Trucking Museum, Wilton Historical Society.

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