Expert: Greg Scholl - 3/26/2010

Question
QUESTION: Hi,

A friend just made me a beautiful oak & poplar cupboard/pantry for my kitchen.  The kitchen has all oak cupboards, so I wanted to paint the unit to offset all that darker wood tone, plus a dark green wallpaper. The wallpaper has off-white dots in it, so I wanted to make the cupboard an ivory color.  I was hoping to make it look sort of antiqued, though, like a streaky look over the ivory paint.  How can I do this?  I also considered doing something speckly, like fly-specking.  Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you,

Michele

ANSWER: Hi Michelle, there are several techniques that can give you this 'Antiqued' look, usually a dirt colored glaze applied over the paint and selectively wiped off is the most direct root, and you can also combine that with a dark colored paste wax like Briwax, Fiddes, etc., to add patina....you can also sand through the paint in areas with some fine sandpaper, and stain the raw wood that shows through, before glazing or waxing.......etc.I would do some research on these techniques online or in the Library, then experiment on some samples to establish your technique, so you'll be able to replicate it over the entire cabinet....one of my favorite glazing techniques uses Gel stain, which is a thick, pudding like, stain in a polyurethane base. It can be used over any surface, (clean surface), and is an easy way to learn about glazing. These stains can have strong color strength though, so when working with them you have to develop a technique, and work quickly...a dry brushing technique and ragging will come into play as well depending on the level of color and the final look you're after, but they dry predictably and hard not requiring a sealer/finish coat (unless desired)....please post back if need be, I hope that helps a little- regards- Greg

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks!  So it sounds like I need to paint it over first, then add the glaze to add darkened streaks?  

I was looking at the cupboard yesterday (for the first time, in person) and since the 2 woods are different enough (he was going to do the whole thing in poplar since I intended to paint it - too much oak already in my kitchen, plus cost savings - but he couldn't find poplar panels, thus resulting in oak panels with poplar trim) I thought I might do this:

Do an off-white pickling stain thin enough to let some of the wood grain still show through, but thick enough to kind of hide the contrast of the colors of the 2 woods a bit, to sort of blend everything (oil-based, which a friend made me to understand will also act as a sealer on this unfinished wood?  Is this true?) .  This may require 2 coats, I think, if the stain is thin.  Could I also just thin down some oil-based paint with turpentine to achieve this same result (acts as a stain but also seal)??

Then I thought I might seal it with a water-based varnish (acrylic), for I understand that an oil-based one may yellow over time, ruining the under-color.  Can I do this?  (An oil-based undercoat with a water-based finish)?

Sorry for all the questions but since I talked this through with a friend and seemed to settle on this I wanted to make sure it was do-able before I went ahead.  (Obviously I've shifted gears since wanting to paint it and have darker smears on top, but I haven't dropped this idea altogether).

To summarize, my questions would be:

1) Clarify the first option - is it to paint and then add the glaze?
2) With the 2nd option, will an oil-based stain also act as (and thus remove the need for) a sealer?
3) Can you thin oil-based paint with turpentine to mimic pickling stain? (and will this still seal?)
4) Can you put a water-based product over an oil-based one?  (and will an oil-based one yellow, ruining the under-color?)


Thanks again!

Michele

ANSWER: You should have had them made from the same wood. Oak and Poplar have very different grain and color...and Oak's grain is very 'open' and porous. Yes you would prime, paint, glaze, then clear coat.Oil based stain has some sealing ability, but it is not a sealer. You can make a 'pickling' stain with water based or oil based paint, but it takes some skill and technique to pickle a piece of furniture evenly.You can also buy premade 'pickling' stains from companies like Minwax The oil based will give you a longer 'open' time with which to accomplish this, but I wouldn't suggest 'pickling' as enough grain will show through to still see the major difference between the Oak and the Poplar.A waterborne clear is recommended over any light color paint, because it is 'water white' (meaning perfectly clear), and  will not yellow, and yes, you can use it over WELL dried oil paint.I'm here if you need me- regards- Greg

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Sorry to bother you again!!  I just thought I'd tell you that originally I planned to paint the unit - I wanted to brighten up my kitchen and not have yet MORE stained/polyed wood.  The man that made it couldn't find poplar panels so he just used oak, knowing that I was going to paint anyway.  That's how I ended up with 2 different woods.  Then I thought it might be nice to display that differentiation (I saw on-line someone who did a cabinet out of 3 woods, for variety).  But you got me thinking - in a good way! - it might be best to try and just cover up the difference, as the poplar is greenish with little grain, whilst the oak is reddish with noticeable grain.  SO you have helped me make my decision, I believe!  :-)  I saw some glazing kits in antique white at our dollar store.  The girl at Lowe's said the glazing would act as the finish topcoat - is this true or must I also put a final acrylic poly?  Also, just to clarify, it sounds like if I go this route I should (like you said) PRIME first, then PAINT, then GLAZE, and then POLY?  (Sorry for more questions, but I'm trying to get this settled in my mind before I go ahead...)I've already sanded - what should I prime with? Does it have to be separate stuff from what I paint with?

THANK YOU again for all of your help and time!   I REALLY appreciate it!!

Michele

Answer
He could have used Birch or Maple for the panels...that would've been a better match and easy to find. Glazing doesn't HAVE to be topcoated, but it is a good idea...prime with a good primer (I like the Zinnser Bullseye 1-2-3), and if you don't want to clearcoat, (or even if you will), I would investigate a Gel stain as a glaze. These are heavy bodied stains in a polyurethane carrier, (think pudding), and can be manipulated like a glaze, but they dry predictably and hard due to the poly content.My fave is the General line of Gels, available at WoodCraft stores or online, but Minwax makes a line as well. The Minwax ones will require you to buy a quart I believe, as I've never seen them in smaller quantities, but the General is available in pints...and the colors can be intermixed.I would highly recommend priming and painting some sample boards to develop your technique on BEFORE committing to the cabinet...that way you can figure out where you're going and master the techniques that will get you there with out risking the cabinet.Best of luck- regards- Greg

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005555/GENERAL-Gel-Top-Coat-and-Stains.aspx