Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Stripping/refinishing

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QUESTION: Hi Eileen -- A lovely table I bought online is resisting all efforts to strip the finish.  I tried Kleen Strip with a heavy duty plastic scrubby purported to be "steel wool"-- that brought up waxy layer, but really didn't penetrate or dissolve the finish.  I tested a hidden area with mineral spirits -- zip.  I tried a steel brush in one area and voila, that area lightened up and I felt I was finally getting down to bare wood.  I also feared that I might do damage as the stripper and water may have softened the surface at this point.  I also noticed some areas of end grain looking whitish.   In exhaustion, I'm heading to bed and hope to have some advice soon.  What do you advise?

ANSWER: Hi Roz
Nice to hear from you.
Oh dear, wish you had asked before starting this.
You are using the wrong stripper.
I don't care what the label says, water and furniture don't mix.
I am hearing from a lot of folks recently about furniture almost being ruined using such methods.
But lets get you on the right track.
Here is the procedure and the correct stripper.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING FURNITURE
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN
Circa is an MC stripper but MC strippers are sold under various trade names.
The label will clearly state methylene chloride.

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing, another coat of stripper is often needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND
When the stripping is complete, stain and apply your finish
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.

Regards
Eileen


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Eileen -- Thanks so much.  I'm on vacation in LA now, but will follow your advice faithfully wen I get home.  I have three follow-up questions.  After I sent my message to you, I realized that the test areas of mineral spirits were having some effect, albeit slow and difficult progress.  I went over the table twice with mineral spirits and much of the finish is gone or thinning.  Is it safe to use MC now and can I use mineral spirits to clean up and wash off any remaining stripper?  I'd like to be down to clean bare wood with no stripper residue remaining that might undermine the new finish.  Another question.  I found some chairs in a dumpster that I'm stripping and refinishing to go with the table.  Their finish just melts away with Kleen Strip, but I already used water to rinse them.  Do I need to sand them now that I've put water on them?  By the way, I intend to clean them with mineral spirits, because water really didn't get all the Kleen Strip off them anyway.  Lastly, what is your advice on stain selection?  The chairs and the table are fairly pale wood and I want a dark mahogany finish when I'm done.  After all this hard work stripping, I'm leaning toward an oil-based, old-school stain that I can apply with clean rags, that will take time to dry, and will require a separate finish.  These quickie new products aren't all they're cracked up to be, and I don't think the finishing products will be any different.  Please advise.  Also, I found your last response to be extremely helpful, and I wish I'd asked for your help in advance of starting my project.  I will do a rating through that tool, also -- 5 stars!  Thanks!  ROZ

Answer
Hi again Roz
Yes its quite safe to use the stripper I recommend even now.
This stripper requires absolutely no after wash with mineral spirits or any other type wash.
Roz you will have to trust me on this. You will not have residue left that will interfere with your finish. Just follow my instructions.
Its a shame you started with the Kleen strip. Obviously it must leave a residue (I have never used it), but please read and follow the directions on the Kleen Strip can. It will tell you what to use as an after wash if its required.
If the can says no after wash but you still have residue, then another coat of the stripper is required.
But once you have used the water, it most likely has raised the wood grain and you may need to sand. Did you know its easier to use medium steel wool to sand chairs than it is sandpaper?
And you will not scratch the wood (and ruin the look), with steel wool.
Yes use your "Old School", (I love that line), oil stain applied with a rag.
If this does not give you the color depth you want, apply a gel stain.
But do a test in a hidden area before proceeding to see how the oil stain goes. If its not good, get a gel stain.
Actually Roz, the finishing products we do it your selfers have to choose from is pretty good.
We just have to choose the correct ones LOL.
For a finish, use 4 coats of tung oil applied with a rag. Its foolproof and looks lovely.
Circa makes the one I like best. Get a satin sheen.
And please don't let this experience deter you from doing more refinishing. Its a wonderful hobby.
And never hesitate to ask for help.
Thanks in advance for the great ratings.
Regards
Eileen

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Eileen Cronk

Expertise

Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

Experience

I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

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