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Hi,

I have recently been given an old desk which had been painted with white emulsion for as long as the former owner could remember. I decided to strip the emulsion to see what the desk looked like beneath - not expecting too much in the way of beauty.

However, having used some stripper to remove the paint from one of the drawer fronts I have exposed a beautiful dark hardwood veneer (I guess either mahogany or teak - I am not an expert in this area) with a lighter wood inlay around the edge of the drawer front which is really nice.

Unfortunately, whilst the paint has been successfully removed, the stripper has inevitably dulled (but not removed) the surface of the varnish from the veneer.

Therefore, before I move onto the rest of the desk, what is the best way for me to remove the emulsion paint without damaging the veneer (and preferably the varnish)?

Am I going down the right road with the paint stripper (NitroMors)? Is damage to the varnish inevitable or is there a way around this to prevent damage?

If the surface of the varnish is only dulled (and not removed/blistered) can I then try to re-gloss the varnish with progressively finer emery paper or will this need to be removed and re-varnished?

I'm in no way experienced in this area so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks!

Answer
Hi Russel
Nice to hear from you.
First off its impossible to remove the paint without removing the original finish. It can't be done.
You cannot regloss the varnish but it sounds to me like you have a nice desk there and if properly stripped and refinished it will be a beauty.
You cannot harm the veneer (thin wood), by stripping. Stripping veneer is no different than stripping solid wood.
You will harm veneer with sanding so avoid doing that.
A properly stripped piece of furniture needs no sanding.
I am sending you the stripping info. I am not familiar with NitroMors stripper.
I include the products I use for this.
It sounds like you are interested in doing this type of work (I call it a hobby LOL), and I wish you good luck with your desk.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING FURNITURE
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN...

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing, another coat of stripper is often needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND
When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax oil stain applied with a rag, then 3 or 4 coats of low lustre tung oil also applied with a rag.
Russel for your desk I recommend using Minwax oil stain in "Special Walnut" color.
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.
Regards
Eileen  

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Eileen Cronk

Expertise

Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

Experience

I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

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