Expert: Greg Scholl - 4/22/2010

Question
QUESTION: We need help!  We recently installed brand new kitchen cabinets.  We had an area where the old cabinets were built-in (in a wall)and our contractor put new maple on the exterior to create new frames, which looks great and we ordered doors from the cabinet manufacturer to match the new cabinets elsewhere in the kitchen but the contractor stained the new frames in an attempt to match the cabinets with regular minwax and it looks terrible.  First it is very blotchy, second the color does not match very well.  I've since read that maple is notorious for taking stain unevenly and requires a prestain which the contractor did not use.  Now we are faced with the prospect of either ripping the new frames off and trying again with fresh wood or somehow trying to restain the frames to match the new cabinets elsewhere.  I have contacted the cabinet manufacturer and I have been able to purchase a stain that they say is the exact match for their prebuilt cabinets.  My big question is whether I can save these face frames or have to start over.  Can I hope to get these frames in a condition to take the new stain and get a reasonable match?  if so, what is involved?  I have seen comments from doing just sanding, to hydrogen peroxide washes to having to use chemical strippers.  My wife is paranoid about the chemical strippers because this is a completely remade kitchen now with a brandnew oak floor, and new cabinets everywhere else.  Any advice would be most gratefully accepted - we've lost confidence in the contractor so I will be taking this on myself to try to repair the damage.

ANSWER: Hi Kevin, this is a common problem when people think they can match a factory applied, high tech finish like this with Minwax or any other oil stain/consumer finishing product. These factory finishes and materials are state of the art, sprayed on finishes, utilizing sealers, stains, toners, and clears to produce a KCMA rated finish. These finishes can have 15 or more individual steps, and they are NOT something that can be replicated by the novice.They use catalyzed components that produce an extremely hard, tough, durable finish that will last 20 or more years in the harsh environment of a kitchen with little to no maintenance. Most of the color you see on the doors is really toner. Toners are sprayed on dye based color coats, sprayed over a sealer, and therefore they do not soak into the wood at all, thereby eliminating the chance for blotching. This technique is used to even tones across a given surface, hide grain irregularities, and produce a pleasing, deep color base that is then clear coated.Sometimes they're used in conjunction with stains, (sometimes multiple stains), and sealers to carefully control the color depth and saturation on trickier woods like Cherry, Maple, etc. Materials are available in aerosol form that would allow an experienced finisher to come a lot closer to this factory finish, but it takes a high degree of skill and knowledge to do so....this is NOT a job for the novice, and you need to end up with a catalyzed top coat that will be as durable and look, and wear the same as the factory finish. Now that they have been stained, it's almost impossible to completely remove the stain...The factory likely produces pre- finished 'filler' material used by installers to fill gaps, etc., or they would also likely finish some face frame material for you as well, that would be a perfect match...in my opinion, your Contractor is not a finisher, and he will not be able to get this right unless he has such supplied, factory finished materials, and that will mean redoing the face frames, unfortunately.it would also mean having to 'biscuit' join them, or maybe 'pocket' screw them, to keep from having to face nail the new frames....probably not possible to do with the cabinet in place.....hope that helps a little- please post back- regards- Greg

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks so much for the response.  The cabinet manufacturer is willing to sell prefinished framing material that I would then cut to size and biscuit join to match the previous effort from my contractor with the raw maple.  So, just to confirm from your thorough response - it is not worth my time to even attempt to match the factory built cabinet staining/finish and I should shift to remaking the frames using manufacturer supplied, prefinished material?

Answer
At this point I would bite the bullet and get the prefinished material.Just beware that when you cut it, you may experience  a touch of tear out, (depending on the quality and blade /condition of your saw), that will likely need touch up......they may even offer to make the faceframe to your spec's and finish it for you....then you'd just have to attach it....but that might be asking a lot....this is the only way to get a match that will age and wear identically to the doors and other finished parts. Also keep in mind (and I don't know how you're contractor was going to finish his faceframe...), these finishing materials are vastly superior to anything you could apply...The clears are two part conversion or catalyzed finishes, and are part of an existing, high tech finishing schedule that is a commercial grade material.Not readily available to a consumer, and require a high degree of knowledge and experience to apply properly, (especially trying to match something), as well as high quality spray equipment.Speak to them and ask them about their finish- As I said, there are aerosol products available to allow one to repair, blend, touch up, or even mimic these finishes, but this is highly skilled work, just to even know what to get.........and you need to use the same technology of the original finish ( Catalyzed lacquer, Conversion Varnish, Catalyzed Urethane, etc), and prep the surface properly to assure adhesion and a perfect match.....they should be willing to help you out, and I hope they will- Best of luck- Greg