Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/worn parquet table

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Question
Parquet finish worn on kitchen table.  Don't think veneer is very thick.  Can it be sanded and refinished, if so which grit sand paper and what type of clear coat should I use.  This is a duplicate of a question I just sent, but neglected to say it was a parquet finishgg7kp

Answer
Hi Larry
Nice to hear from you.
Do not sand the table.
Use a chemical stripper to remove the finish.
I like Minwax oil based poly in a satin sheen for kitchen tables.
I have it on mine. Great wearing, does not water mark, durable for kids.
I am also sending the stripping info.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING FURNITURE
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN...
If this is not available in your area ask for an MC stripper which the Circa is. It comes under different brand names.
MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Depending on the material you are removing, another coat of stripper is often needed but you will know this as you progress into the job.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND
When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax stain applied with a rag, then 3 or 4 coats of the Minwax poly mentioned above.
Larry even if you want the wood its natural color, use stain. When we don't want to add color we use Minwax oil stain in "natural". This prevents blotching, and ensures an easier removal of the poly in the future should you be so inclined.
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.Regards
Eileen
PS..the existing finish could be lacquer and harder to get off than say poly but it will come off.  

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Eileen Cronk

Expertise

Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

Experience

I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

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