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Cool table I want to protect!!
Cool table I want to p  
QUESTION: Eileen,
I bought a couple tables that look great (aged and worn perfectly) that we want to use in our master bathroom with our sinks installed in the tables.  I know they won't stand up to years and years of water, dampness and general bathroom wear with the current "dry room" finish it has now. How do I protect it?  I'm thinking with a polyurethane, right?  I've also heard about marine urethane with sanding sealer (I've never heard of sanding sealer). How do I prep the surface to keep the current awesome look?  I don't want to change a thing, just make it water safe for many, many years to come.

ANSWER: Hi Pam
Nice to hear from you.
This table is veneer and I do not recommend it be used for a sink.
Having said that, sanding sealer is a product that is applied to new bare wood.
Its supossed to cut down on the sanding but I never use it.
But to get to your question.
This table likely has lacquer on it now so in order to apply a poly (which I recommend), you must strip off the lacquer with paint stripper.
The lacquer is also likely colored so before going too far you have to test to see if I'm correct.
Are you willing?
To test, get a small can of lacquer thinner at the hardware.
Do the test on the back of the table skirt.
Simply soak a bit of the thinner on a rag and rub a small area of the table.
If its lacquer it will start to soften. after it softens keep wetting and rubbing to see if the color comes off the wood and a much lighter wood is exposed.
I really think the table is maple finished to look like walnut but test and see.
And get back to me please
Regards
Eileen


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hmmm, I'm quite concerned you don't recommend us use it.  We've already purchased the sinks to go in it and the plumber has already plumbed the water to the right height (we are building a new house).  I'm probably going to go ahead with the project and just use it as long as it lasts.  
What happens if the lacquer does make the color come off?  
If it doesn't and I lacquer the whole thing, what process do I use for applying the poly?  
Do I use marine poly?

Thanks so much!  I will keep you posted on the progress and I'll attach picture, too, so you can see how it's coming along.

ANSWER: Hi again Pam
If you are going ahead anyway (I don't blame you), then a good sanding of the top and apply two coats of oil based poly. Use a sanding block with the sandpaper to ensure you do not sand into the veneer.
Watch the sanding closely. You do not want to remove any color.
And if the lacquer does not make the color come off, then I would do it properly.
That is stripping and applying 3 coats of poly. No sanding at all.
Make darn sure that the hole is cut before applying the poly.
Then you can apply the poly to the exposed edge of the cut (this is very important.)
Its also important the sink is well sealed around the edge. I'm sure the plumber will do this but make sure its done.
And Thank You Pam for the great ratings.
It makes helping others in this way very nice.
Regards
Eileen
PS..If you need the full stripping info just ask.
Good Luck
PS..its usually not recommended that we apply poly over lacquer so do a good sanding job to ensure it sticks. It likely won't otherwise.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Eileen - I think this is the weekend to do my tables!  I have a couple questions before I get started.
1. You answered to one of my earlier questions about these tables you suggested a good sanding of the top and apply two coats of poly.  I'm planning to do the whole stripping - if my tables will cooperate, I won't need to do ANY sanding - before, during or after - if I do the stripping and then poly, right?
2. If the color does come off with the test strip, then I'd sand the top and poly, right?
3. I can't find the "Circa 1850" around here, do you have another you recommend or should I order it?  A local hardware company highly recommended "All Finish Stripper".  He said it works great and it's all he's used for 45 years.  
4. Any certain poly I should look for to use as the final sealant that will be able to handle bathroom vanity water splashes?
5. I'm more than a little nervous about doing this, but I do think it will be fun and rewarding.  I soooo appreciate your help!

Answer
Hi again Pam
No sanding before during or after if you fully strip the finish off using chemical stripper.
If the color comes off in the test, then just sand the top.
If the man at the hardware has used his stripper for that long with good results, then by all means go for it. I sure can't argue with 45 years experience LOL.
Currently, I have Minwax oil based fast drying poly on my kitchen table. Its a really good moisture barrier as well as keeping a mellow look. It does not water mark.
If you fully strip, apply 3 coats. If you just sand, use two coats.
Pam don't be nervous. Just dig in.
And keep me posted and write if problems happen.
Regards
Eileen

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Eileen Cronk

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Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

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I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

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