Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Locking Rabbett Joint

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QUESTION: Planing to use locking rabbet joints for large heavy duty drawers; planned slides are 150lb capacity.  Also planning separate drawer fronts.  Planned rabbet will see pull pressure put onto a 1/2 tab on the drawer sides in 3/4 stock.

Do you see a problem with these joints failing over time?

ANSWER: Tom,

A locking rabbet joint is exactly what I would use in a piece like you described. I use those all the time, they're quick to machine, and very strong. You should be absolutely fine, they will not fail over time.

Just four things to add - I usually house the back of the drawer into a dado that is one inch from the end of the side pieces. I don't generally cut that locking rabbet joint on both the front and back pieces, just the front.

Next - I scribe a very thin line (with an X-acto blade) on the center of the joints on the side pieces, and shoot a micro pin into all of my drawers. I leave the scribed line in the wood, I think it looks nice and professional, showing both that the drawer was handmade, and that someone took the time to pin the drawer.

You might want to pre-drill some countersunk holes on the drawer box front, from the inside. That way, when you attach the drawer box to the face, you have some holes ready to use. I use double-sided tape to place the face where I want it, and then clamp and screw from the inside of the box to attach them. It's a simple system.

Last thing - I house the bottom of in a dado, so that it is completely supported all the way around, and you don't see the plywood edge. Depending on what you'll store in the drawers, I usually put the dado a 1/2" up from the bottom for lighter loads, and 1" up for heavier loads.

Hope this helps, good luck.

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com
My woodworking blog: www.wooditis.blogspot.com





---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Jaime:

my bad--I'm actually using a tongue and dado rather than the lock rabbet.  I plan to use these on both the front and back, with a separate drawer front.  With ball bearing slides, I think this would be OK, but the drawers are large, like 30W X28L X16 H(deep).

Would you have the same answer?

Answer
Tom,

Yes my answer would be the same.

With a drawer that large, I would probably recommend a 1/2" bottom, instead of 1/4". And would definitely dado the bottom in place an inch up from the bottom. You might consider a center stretcher under the bottom, too - for some added rigidity.

Good luck,

Jamie in Vegas

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Jamie Yocono

Expertise

Woodworker, Furniture designer/builder, industrial arts educator. Bachelor degree in Furniture Design, and journeyman carpenter, with a 4 year apprenticeship. Currently owner of custom furniture/cabinet shop in Las Vegas, NV. Can answer most woodworking questions EXCEPT those regarding repairs, refinishing, and antiques.

Experience

Bachelor in Furniture Design - Ohio University (1980) Journeyman Carpenter, Local 639 Adult educator - Developed adult education woodworking program for the University of Akron, and taught classes there for 9 years. Opened a private woodworking school in Las Vegas, NV and teach private and semi-private lessons. In 2011, I will begin teaching UNLV woodworking classes at my school. Sweet!

Organizations
Furniture Society

Publications
Tile Design and Installation Magazine (Article on inlaying tile into wood)

Education/Credentials
Journeyman Union Carpenter Bachelors degree in Furniture Design (Ohio University) College of Hard Knocks!

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