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Question
I have a brand new clad fir door, so the inside needs a finish. I don't really want to stain it first, but I do like a little yellowish amber look. I would like to try a waterborne finish if possible, just for ease and smell. That said, it doesn't have to be waterborne. Can you make any suggestions for which finish to choose?

Also, some of the polyurethanes are listed as "outside" finishes. Does it really make any difference, since this is for the interior?

thx

Answer
Hey Rob, A waterborne Acrylic Urethane will be "water white" meaning it dries clear with no ambering like an oil based urethane.....you could use an exterior finish inside, but not the other way around, and most exterior urethanes will be darker in color to add that warm look your after. But I would suggest WaterLox "Original", a penetrating modified Tung oil/varnish product. It's got a deep amber color from the Tung oil,but is among the easiest of all finishes to apply. You just brush or wipe it on ,let it sit a few minutes, and then wipe it off like a stain. Multiple coats can be applied, (the more coats the more it will'build'), and down the road, if it starts looking a little dull, you can clean the surface and simply apply another coat and it will not chip,flake, or peel like a poly can.... If the Waterlox is TOO dark, then any of the polyurethanes on the market would be fine,but they will all have a little different degree of yellow/amber/brownish color and keep in mind that good brush technique is important for a professional look, something the Waterlox does not require...Good 'ol Minwax poly is a decent choice, and has a pleasing yellow/amber hue as well. If you wet the door with some mineral spirits on a rag, you'll get an idea of what a solvent based poly will look like...Hope that helps- regards- Greg

http://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-penetrating-tung-oil-flo...

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Greg Scholl

Expertise

Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects, Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings, wood species recognition and usage,tool recommendations, blade types and recommendation,techniques and methods for many Woodworking related issues, etc.

Experience

Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.) Sold, built, serviced, setup Home, Industrial, and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools , provided knowledge, parts replacement, service, and on site service, Trade show Demo, and training as well.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how")

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars from major Tool manufacturers, Skil/Bosch, Delta, Powermatic, Ritter, Porter cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt/B&Decker, Performax.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT. (the Antiques capital of CT.), Golden Age of Trucking Museum, Wilton Historical Society.

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