Expert: Greg Scholl - 9/16/2010

Question
QUESTION: Hi Greg
I have recently acquired a 1950s singer sewing maching in cabinet. The cabinet is walnut veneer (on the body of the cabinet), and has stained (unveneered) legs.
I have stripped the veneered sections (using chemical stripper) and have come back to some really good looking wood (although a bit stained).
My plan is to sand this back lightly before refinishing.
Can you please tell me what I should use to get a really good and protected wood, which achieves a high shine and brings out the natural highlights in the wood. From researching the internet I thought about using boiled lineed oil followed by some sort of clearcoat on top. However, I really don't know whether this is right, or how to go about it.
Also, as the legs of this cabinet are not veneered, but simply stained, i'm not sure the best way to get these to match the top.
Any ideas or information you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Kind Regards
Richard

ANSWER: Hi Richard, Oxalic acid solution will remove many stains, especially black stains from water, plants, etc. on Oak. It's available in crystalline form at a good hardware store. I would suggest using  stain and a good polyurethane to finish the project, and you'll have to mix a custom stain to make the top and base match, and perhaps vary the number of coats to make them the same color.I would stay away from Linseed oil, it won't have a lot of effect on Oak, and it tends to darken over time and can interfere with the finish if not fully cured. There is a product called Waterlox which is a modified Tung oil/Varnish finish, which is excellent, but oils are a penetrating finish, and if you stain first, you're sealing the wood so a penetrating finish can't penetrate...(unless you use a Dye stain)...I am not familiar with the products you can get down under...but if you can order from the internet, I highly recommend the General Gel stains and Gel Urethane top coat. These are super easy to get Pro results with, fill the grain up a little more that conventional stains, and have good workablilty and better color strength than the typical oil stain....or they also have a line of waterborne Dye stains that are excellent. If you're experience is limited with finishing, I would highly recommend the Gel stain and Urethane topcoat, as these are wiped on, (no need for brushing), and will yield excellent results. Unfortunately, I can't really help you with matching the top and base from here, but these stains are available in small cans and can be freely intermixed to alter their colors......hope that helps a little - feel free to post back- regards- Greg

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005555/GENERAL-Gel-Top-Coat-and-Stains.aspx?key

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005555/16557/Clear-Satin-Topcoat-Gel-Stain-Qua

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Greg - thanks for your advice. However, I note you refer to "oak". My question was about "walnut". Wouldn't your advice be the same regards walnut?
- Would the oxalic acid remove stains from walnut as well?
- Would an oil (like Danish Oil) be a good option on walnut? A lot of forums recommend Danish Oil on walnut veneer.
Many thanks
Richard

Answer
Sorry Richard, this is what can happen when answering questions after a long day........yes it will also remove water and black stains from Walnut....you might want to mix the solution and apply it directly to the stains with a small artist's brush, and then follow with treating the whole surface.....just be sure to read and follow all the directions and precautions, and remember that even after dry, if resanding, the dust will have acid residue in it, so protect yourself. An oil finish is a good choice, but remember these are penetrating finishes, so if you're going to stain, they may not be a good choice, and to 'build' a glossy or 'deep' finish will take many,many coats, or after thorough cure, you could poly or varnish over it.Watco is available colored, in a few Walnut tones as well, so it can be a decent choice, by itself, it just looks quite different than a surface finish like a varnish, poly, lacquer, etc. I like WaterLox better than Watco, it's a hybrid, penetrating Tung oil/varnish product, that builds faster, and is tougher and more water resistant than the Watco, but it's not available in colors. If you really have major color differences between the top and base, working with stains to match it up, and then using the Waterlox or a something like the General Gel finish will probably be easier. The Gel stains and Gel Urethane top coat are really fantastic,they also tend to fill the grain better up due to their pudding like consistency, unlike an oil finish, and once you try them, you'll probably never go back to conventional oil stains and poly....regards- Greg