Expert: Greg Scholl - 2/23/2011

Question
QUESTION: Greg - I read your recent response in regards to the Rustoleum cabinet products.  I saw this product and it's sibling recently for countertops.  I have just a couple of questions, really as a follow-up to your previous answer.  

The previous owner of my house painted the inset portion of my cabinet doors and drawers, my concern about the rustoleum product is that it does not suggest sanding/priming/stripping first.  I would think that the glaze or primer as you referred to it would go on similar to any other primer or base coat and may not provide a balanced finished product based on the partially painted doors.  Do you think there is a solution to this?  Strip and sand?  Prime then glaze?

Also have you seen the counter-top transformation with much success?  I have a couple of slight bubbles on the edge of my countertop and was thinking I could use contact cement to reseal the current laminate and then use the counter-top transformation kit.  Thoughts?

ANSWER: Hi Scott, I think you're mistaken about the Rustoleum kit. One of the most important steps is the primer/bond coat, and they recommend 2 coats before the color coat. Glaze is another step, that can be done over the color coat before the clear coat. Cleaning the cabinets with a ScotchBrite pad and prep liquid is also carefully detailed in the prep phase. My own feeling is that there should be a 'scuff' sanding done after the initial cleaning steps.This roughens the surfaces microscopically to give the bond/primer coat the maximum adhesion.In your situation, there is a risk because of the previously painted surfaces. You don't know how well the work was done or how well the surface was prepped.The reason they don't suggest stripping is because it is VERY difficult to do on cabinets manufactured in the last 25+ years. The finishes used are catalyzed or conversion finishes that do not strip easily, and even pose a challenge for a Pro (as well as a LOT of labor). If the painting job on your cabinets was done properly, then it's likely you could just prep them properly, scuff sand the existing finish and then finish as you normally would. If the job was NOT done properly, (perhaps try to gouge it with a fingernail in an out of the way place), then it will have to be removed. I would suggest watching the video on the Rustoleum page:

http://cabinets.rustoleumtransformations.com/

The countertop kit is similar technology, and would likely give a decent finish with pretty good durability...but NOT the same as Formica or similar laminates....a laminate that's loosening up near the edge could likely be repaired,(bubbling doesn't sound the same as loosening) just be prepared to clamp the laminate down for a few hours with some heavy duty clamps and a caul to evenly cover the area after you reapply the glue.Once you start working in the area, be prepared to find that it's a larger area than you expected, though. Hope that helps a little- poist back if need be- regards- Greg

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I appreciate the quick response.  Two follow-ups.

As for the cabinets, I understand that the bond coat is effectively a primer, however it is tinted and is what creates the base color of the "new look".  My question really amounts to, would the suggested two coats of this bond coating be enough to evenly cover the painted portion of the surface as compared to the more natural surface right next to it?

When you say gouge a portion of the paint.  Would you anticipate that if I gouge the paint and it is done well it should be difficult to get the paint to scratch or tear off?  If it does not gouge based on your response I agree I should go ahead and do some amount of sanding as part of the prep work, but I still have the underlying fear that two coats of the bond will not provide an even distribution of color over the painted versus nonpainted surfaces.

As for the counters - I guess the reason I was after this technique was it appeared to be more cost effective than to replace the entire counter top.  That being said I don't really know what a typical laminate would run.  I'll need to re-evaluate my issue spots to be sure I can repair them before I get too far into the path of re-coating the laminate vs. replace.

Answer
It will depend on the color you choose, versus the color you're trying to cover..like any painting project, you won't really know the answer until you try the technique. Yes, the fingernail test should give you the ability to see if the paint that's on there is adhered well.(try it in a few areas)...again, as far as coverage, you won't know until you do it.The texture of the painted areas may also be different for the fact that the paint has filled the grain more than the surrounding non painted areas...but that will depend on a few things, like the type of wood and level of prior finish depth, etc.....my feeling with laminates is that it's worth doing the counters in a way that they will provide maximum durability...and a coating over a laminate will not be as durable....I think your train of thought is correct. If it's a simple "L" or straight counter top, replacing it with a pre-made counter may be cost effective and many home centers have a multitude of choices in stock. Yours could also be relaminated by a kitchen shop, if you can find one that does this, there are hundreds of choices in laminates, from several manufacturers, and the laminate itself isn't tremendously expensive...as with most things, it's the labor that's expensive.......regards- Greg