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QUESTION: I have rough cedar tongue and groove ceilings that were unfinished. I have sanded smooth and applied minwax walnut stain.  I have applied three light coats of Watco wipe on poly as suggested by our local woodworkers supply.  I dont like the uneven look.  I dont necessarily need a high gloss plastic finish but would like it to be even.  Have tried buffing and paste wax with no luck.

ANSWER: Hi Marla, the real problem is the Cedar...it's a soft wood and will soak up anything you apply to it unevenly, yielding the look you're experiencing.It must also be quite dark after this finish schedule, (unless the Cedar is newer)...as I'm sure the stain likely soaked in like a sponge as well.Just the stain, or a penetrating oil finish would have been a better choice, but unfortunately, it's not possible on top of what you've done.....one should ALWAYS do a finish test, from start to finish,on a scrap or test piece, BEFORE committing to the whole job...so you know where you're going and how to get there...this can't be stressed enough, and I say it a lot....when to me, it's really common sense....you now have very few options...if you keep applying the wipe on, you will eventually even it out, because it will eventually seal the wood to the point of not being able to soak up anything more, and it will start to 'build' like a full strength poly.....you can also use a Satin or Flat finish to cut down the gloss....but the more coats you apply, the glossier and more 'finished' it will look....whereas a few coats of a penetrating oil finish would have given a softer,less reflective and more even appearance.......wish I had better news, and wish you checked here first,...and remember...anywhere you've waxed has to be cleaned of the wax now if you want to apply anything else other than more wax, waxing such a large surface would be a mistake as well.....post back if need be- regards- Greg

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QUESTION: I apparently implied in my original request that I had done my whole ceilings.  I have sanded the entire room but have just stained and used the poly on a small section.  I did test the poly and it seemed to be what I was after until I did a bigger area.  The stain is dark but that is what I want. I can resand and try the penetrating oil.  Would you suggest danish oil?  If so what brand do you recommend?  Should I use the minwax stain first? Will the oil finish have to be redone periodically? This is something I'm trying to avoid which is why I think the poly was recommended.  Thank you

Answer
I can't answer all of your questions because it really depends on the look you're after....if you have stained and poly'd a section of the ceiling, you won't be able to just sand it away now...so that will figure into your next steps. Watco danish oil is a fine choice,but again, the real problem is the Cedar. No matter what you use, it is difficult to finish evenly, but as a general rule...the less you do the better.You can stain first, and Watco comes in colors as well, but remember it's a penetrating finish, and if staining seals the wood, (and an oil stain will)...the Watco can't penetrate as well. These finishes are like a thin varnish...they do harden from within the wood, and the more coats you apply, the more it will "build" like a varnish, and the more gloss it will impart, but NOT evenly on Cedar. It may have to be reapplied at some point, again, depending on what you want it to look like, and how much work you want to put into it.....all wood surfaces weather and change over time with UV light, oxidation, etc...Cedar is usually left unfinished when used on an interior, or sometimes just oiled with a clear oil finish. One of the main reasons, is that it is a very soft wood and difficult to finish nicely..............

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Greg Scholl

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Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects, Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings, wood species recognition and usage,tool recommendations, blade types and recommendation,techniques and methods for many Woodworking related issues, etc.

Experience

Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.) Sold, built, serviced, setup Home, Industrial, and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools , provided knowledge, parts replacement, service, and on site service, Trade show Demo, and training as well.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how")

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars from major Tool manufacturers, Skil/Bosch, Delta, Powermatic, Ritter, Porter cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt/B&Decker, Performax.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT. (the Antiques capital of CT.), Golden Age of Trucking Museum, Wilton Historical Society.

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