Expert: Greg Scholl - 4/28/2011

Question
I have a 28 year old 3.5 x 6 ft coffee table top with an inlaid oak top.  The oak pieces are several different sizes, 1" x 6" and up,  and go in opposing directions or at right angles to each other in some places, so it's fairly difficult for a "pretty good amateur" like me. About 10 years ago applied Minwax oil based red mahogany, dark walnut and pecan so I ended up with a three-color top with six 8" red mahogany diamonds.  I had stripped it and sanded it prior to application and discovered that the wood is apparently sealed - really saturated extremely well - with something that I can't get rid of - & that it prevents any absorption of the stain. Nevertheless, I stripped it again this winter and just finished reapplying the same stains to it.  Yesterday I totally messed up what I just did- by applying what I had hoped would be a nearly waterproof coat of Deft clear wood finish (satin brushing lacquer).  Another nearly impossible job, since it starts to dry fairly fast. Well - it literally lifted the stain right off the table in some places and left a bumpy finish in others. Since I use this table for all kinds of things, I need a really tough layer of something on top of the stain. I have not been happy with the Minwax clear acrylic sealer used the first time (it eventually started to flake off here and there). What can I use to seal it well, and what suggestions do you have for getting the stain to "stick" better??

Answer
Hi Carol, what you're describing sounds like the typical problem with Oak and other hardwoods and oil stain. It cannot penetrate well, especially a veneered surface, and therefore you cannot get a dark rich color on these woods with an oil stain, period. It's also very important when applying any oil stain, to wipe it all off very well after application, and it sounds like you were not doing that, and instead were trying to 'paint' the colors on with the stain...(a big no-no) in an attempt to get the surface dark. This is the reason you will experience things like flaking, adhesion issues, drying problems, premature failure of the finish, and lifting of the color when trying to apply the topcoat. Lacquer is not the best choice for brushing, or durability, and it's solvent is very strong which will remove a lot of stains unless sprayed. A urethane would be a better choice, but the real issue is the staining, or coloring technique. What you're attempting to do is really "toning" and usually is done with a combination of dye stain, perhaps a Gel stain, and colored clear coats that are sprayed on.Dye stains penetrate the best on hard woods, but are tricky to use for the novice, and on a veneered hardwood may not penetrate well either. Hardwood veneers are very thin and have the glue layer as well...both of which will keep the wood from being able to soak up any color at all, making it seem as if its sealed with something.......you would likely have to employ masking and sprayed toners to effect the multi colored look you're after, in combination with staining, and likely more than one coat or type of stain. Often a dye stain is applied, and then a Gel urethane stain as well, followed by the colored toning coats.This is advanced finishing and really not the realm of the novice, however......Also, spraying the topcoat is another way to keep from ruining this type of selectively colored veneer....and Minwax's aerosol fast dry Polyurethane is a good, durable choice for a table like yours...but spraying also requires some pretty good technique and experience to do well. Gel stain is also more suited for this type of staining, as it's in a polyurethane base and really "sets up" unlike other stains. Multiple coats can be applied (with proper dry time between), and multiple colors can be mixed or used over others to effect deeper colors and differing hues....ragging and dry brushing techniques can also be employed to help blend or deepen the color,create patina or glaze effects, but as with all pigmented stains, too much will make the color muddy and more opaque...something that dyes don't suffer from.I like the Bartley or General gel stains, and the General wipe on Gel Poly is one of the best top coats on the market for ease of application and Pro results.....while it's always difficult to teach anyone the ins and outs of this type of finishing..it can be learned, and practiced to gain the necessary experience and skill...and you will need to move beyond the ubiquitous "yellow can" to more professional materials and supplies. including learning to spray. Hope that helps a little - I'm here so post back if need be- Greg

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005555/GENERAL-Gel-Top-Coat-and-Stains.aspx

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005555/16555/Clear-Satin-Topcoat-Gel-Stain-12-...