Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Springs
Expert: Mark H. Miller - 6/17/2011
Question
I am not sure of the age of the chair but it smelt badly. I have read all your Q&As on springs and I think I can keep the zig-zag springs on the back: I have knocked them all in the clips and have ordered the rubber bands as suggested. My problem is the spring unit: I think 4 out of 6 laths have lost its strength, I was wondering,
1. Can I put webbing underneath to support the whole unit so it won't sag down?
2. I am unable to source a unit in the UK of this size unless it's made to measure which I don't want to spend a fortune on.
3. If I remove the whole unit, the frame holding it is 1" x 3", if I put the webbing in the bottom of the frame and use coil springs, does that mean I have to buy the springs 3" longer than the existing ones to compensate for the height difference? The ones on it now is 5.5"? Or, should I use the zig-zag ones instead?
Your expert advice is appreciated. I am a total novice.
AnswerI am not sure of the age of the chair but it smelt badly.
In that case you did exactly the right thing by removing all the existing padding, there is no way to get bad odor out of old furniture any other way. I am certain your chair is from around the 1960's
I think I can keep the zig-zag springs on the back: I have knocked them all in the clips and have ordered the rubber bands as suggested.
Exactly the way to go. No-sag springs don't wear out, only the clips do.
My problem is the spring unit: I think 4 out of 6 laths have lost its strength, I was wondering,
1. Can I put webbing underneath to support the whole unit so it won't sag down?
No, the metal straps are not sagging, the coil springs have lost their tension and adding webbing will do nothing to firm them up. The coil springs should be replaced. I have never seen the metal straps wear out.
2. I am unable to source a unit in the UK of this size unless it's made to measure which I don't want to spend a fortune on.
You should be able to buy regular coil springs - they are still readily available - get the larges spring available a # 4 hard or larger and cut the spring somewhere close to the center to get the correct height. Doing that will give you this type of spring by adapting a different spring, when you see a large coil spring you will see what I'm talking about. The type spring you have in the seat was common from the 1930 through the 1960. But you can just cut a regular coil spring and achieve the same thing, you should even be able to slide the new spring into the loops that are in the metal straps.
3. If I remove the whole unit, the frame holding it is 1" x 3", if I put the webbing in the bottom of the frame and use coil springs, does that mean I have to buy the springs 3" longer than the existing ones to compensate for the height difference?
Don't remove the straps, maybe new nails that hold them and then twist the new springs into the existing straps. Cut the new coil springs so that they are the same size as the existing springs don't make them 3" higher.
If you decide to install webbing instead of the metal straps then the webbing would go on the bottom of the frame, in which case you would indeed have to compensate in height for the height. However, a frame that has jute webbing has to be much stronger so you can not switch to lute webbing without also making the frame stronger. Leaving the metal straps and cutting new coil springs to the size and shape of your existing springs is in my opinion the way to go.
The ones on it now is 5.5"? Or, should I use the zig-zag ones instead?
No, coil springs are much better. Don't use no-sag springs in a seat unless they were already there, coil springs are always superior.
You should be able to buy the coil springs you need from an upholstery shop, if they charge you around the equivalent of one U.S. dollar per springs they will make a profit.
You need jute spring twine to tie the springs.
I hope this helps, have fun.
Mark Miller.