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Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Topcoat for Oiled Craftsman Gumwood

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QUESTION: Greg, thanks for all your great info. I saw your post re http://en.allexperts.com/q/Woodworking-2320/2008/12/gumwood-refinishing.htm , and basically want to clarify something:
I have a similar craftsman interior that I've spent two years stripping, sanding and oiling a whole lot of trim and moulding with a 5 coat schedule of Boiled Linseed Oil coats,  sufficient drying intervals. As a novice woodworker BLO has been my mainstay and as usual brought out the color quite in this "gumwood", Red Eucalyptus in this case. I'm suddenly face with the issue that I may have to move and rent out this house, and I feel it would be unwise to leave just oiled woodwork that will likely be subject to abuse and not get the maintenance it would require. Im thinking I should topcoat with a more protective finish but can't stand a glossy or "matte" varnish or poly look. Even waterlox satin is way too glossy and thick. I've had decent test results with either a liquid Satin Wax product, and or Watco Danish oil over the top of the oiled wood. Do you concur with either of these solutions or have an alternate solution? Thanks! -Steve:o

ANSWER: Hey Steve, if you've applied 5 coats, you should be left with a pretty protective coat...this is a long oil, and does 'cure' like a thinned varnish to provide fairly good protection...especially after 5 coats.adding Watco over it wouldn't get you much, and now...since you've 'built' a decent layer of finish, successive coats from now on will get more glossy......I wouldn't wax it, as one of the beautiful things about an oil finish is that you can simply clean it and recoat it to rejuvenate it down the road, and waxing it will contaminate the surface with.....wax.......if you can't stand the look of a film finish...then you're left with what you've got there...and I think it's enough.You could use a Tung oil over the BLO, it holds up better to moisture and other damage, and doesn't tend to darken over time like the BLO, and I prefer that to BLO...hope that helps- post back if need be- regards- Greg

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks so much for all the helpful advice Greg! Just wanted to clarify... wouldn't leaving it just as an oil finish, mean needing to recoat it every year or two? The one test area I did a year ago with a watco topcoat seems significantly more "cleanable", where as the oil coated-only areas have been prone to water marks, etc.

But based on my understanding of what you're saying, maybe maybe I'll just to a final top-coat of Tung oil over the existing 4-5 BLO coats. (any brand suggestions? (I know many of the "Tung Oil"s are modified and such.)

Again, I'll be needing to rent the home soon, so I'm looking for a solution that doesn't require regular maintenance. What's your best guess that an oil only finish will last without recoating?

Answer
http://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-satin-tung-oil-wood-floo

This would be my recommendation...will go over the BLO fine (as long as it has cured for a few weeks), and will offer better protection and renew-ability- low gloss level- proven reliability...yes a 'modified', penetrating Tung oil/varnish product. Since you have opted for an oil finish...yes, it will need 'renewing' every year or two...this is the nature of a penetrating oil finish....regards- Greg

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Greg Scholl

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Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects, Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings, wood species recognition and usage,tool recommendations, blade types and recommendation,techniques and methods for many Woodworking related issues, etc.

Experience

Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.) Sold, built, serviced, setup Home, Industrial, and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools , provided knowledge, parts replacement, service, and on site service, Trade show Demo, and training as well.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how")

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars from major Tool manufacturers, Skil/Bosch, Delta, Powermatic, Ritter, Porter cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt/B&Decker, Performax.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT. (the Antiques capital of CT.), Golden Age of Trucking Museum, Wilton Historical Society.

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