Expert: Greg Scholl - 8/19/2011

Question
QUESTION: Hi Greg,

I have a solid cherry dining room table, it is the natural color with a danish oil finish, no additional color. The danish oil was applied with fine steel wool.

A box of overripe fruit, nectarines, was left on the table (don't ask!) and it leaked out unnoticed. I hoped it would dry and look ok, but sadly it left a dark stain. After reading some of your other answers, I know now that the stain may come from the plant material and if it had been clear water I might not be asking you how can I fix it. The box was a dark color, so that could be the color source.

What should I try to remove the stain? The wood does not seem to be damaged beyond the discoloration, the surface is still smooth. I'm a total novice... so I'm hoping the answer isn't sand the table top!

I can upload a picture, but don't see where I do that on the form.

A related question: I remember reading that the danish oil formulation had changed some years ago... and I am now out of the oil. Do I still want danish oil to oil it? Can you explain what changed.

I can send a picture, but I don't see how to attach it to the email.

Many thanks,
Leslie

ANSWER: Hi Leslie, unfortunately this is bad damage..likely a chemical reaction from acids, sugars, etc. with the Cherry, and can not easily be fixed. The top will likely have to be stripped chemically, sanded and refinished, and it may be quite difficult to remove such a stain...Danish oil is really a "long" oil finish..the term oil is a bit of a misnomer, they're really closer to a thin, penetrating varnish, comprised of resins, oils like Linseed,or Tung, Phenolics, solvents and driers.. as they do penetrate the wood and harden from within.Oil finishes cure hard to offer pretty good protection, but not against such damage because they leave the wood porous.Newer versions are less toxic, carry less VOC's, and more modified, modern resins..but still perform and apply like their counterparts.I wouldn't use steel wool to apply them, unless ..perhaps if you were rejuvenating an older finish....typically all prep and sanding is done down to a fine grit before starting the application process, and the oil is applied with a brush or pad liberally...allowed to penetrate for 10 minutes or so..and then wiped off thoroughly. Then allowed to dry for 24 hrs. or so before the next coat.Watco is a decent product, but I like the Waterlox modified Tung oil product in the "natural"or "original" formula...especially on cherry. It dries to a more water resistant finish than the Watco, but will darken the wood more as well....as it has a dark, rich amber/brown color.3 coats with proper cure time in between is usually about right, and the finish will continue to cure for a few weeks after the final application.More than 3 coats and it will start to "build" into a surface finish like a traditional varnish ...wish I had better news, you may want to have this evaluated by a Pro...as it isn't a job for the novice in most cases....please post back- regards- Greg

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QUESTION: Thanks Greg, I was hoping there might be an easier fix. I agree with you, it isn't something I can handle myself

Any guidance on where I can find someone locally (San Francisco Bay area, east bay side) and what I should ask to determine if the person knows what they are doing and can handle the job?

I'm also wondering what the repairs will run, if you could help me understand a ballpark price, I know it would just be an educated guess, but that would be very helpful.

The table is 42X106 and there are three leaves in it. With no leaves it is a 42" round. The damage is on 2 of the leaves, would you recommend I have them do the leaves first in case they can't get the stain out so that worst case I have a small table? That would be a sad outcome, but better than nothing. Or would I need to commit stripping,  sanding and refinishing the whole thing to get it to match?

On the oil, I would describe the current color as a more reddish color and not very brown. It is light enough to let the grain show through which I like. Would the Waterlox show the grain or darken it to make it less prominent? The amber color sounds more yellow tones with the brown rather than reddish.

Thanks so much for your help and answering so quickly... I know it isn't fun delivering bad news, but I'd rather know up front what I'm facing so I can be realistic about how much to spend and be prepared for what the possible outcomes are.

Thanks again,
Leslie

This form has a link to attach a photo, so I'll upload one!

Answer
That actually doesn't look too bad...but Cherry is a finicky thing, and changes color over time....and refinishing it can also change it's color....I think the idea of doing the leaves first is a good one, especially if you can furnish an undamaged 3rd leaf to the Restorer...that will give them the ability to make a good/perfect match without having the table.....depending on the outcome you may not even need to do the rest of the table, as it's quite large, and would be several hundred dollars to do, I fear. I would check with a few long standing, reputable Antique dealers in the area, and get a recommendation from them. They will know who is good in your area, and will likely have a long standing relationship with someone who knows what they're doing.All the Oil finishes have a slight color, the yellowish hue will come more from the natiral color of the Cherry, but some ambering can be expected....yours is quite light....best of luck....Greg