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QUESTION: Please don't embarrass me by asking how I did it, but I managed to get orange oil furniture polish all over the painted metal surface of an antique. The polish dried into a hard dark coating on the glossy painted metal surface.
Is there any solvent that I can use to remove the dried polish without damaging the glossy surface underneath?
I tried using a plastic scraper with very limited success. It only removes the top surface of the polish. Rubbing alcohol also has no effect. So far the only thing that seems to work at all is scraping at it with my finger nail, but a good part of the surface is not accessible for that.  Also my hand is already starting to cramp up after working on only about 10% of the surface!!
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

ANSWER: Hey Steve....it's extremely unlikely that what you're describing could happen...an orange oil polish has nothing in it that could produce a 'hard dark coating' on old paint...it could have cleaned the metal to the point where you're now seeing the natural patina (read dirt, grime, wax, etc) on the Antique surface.....you can try some mineral spirits and a rag....but if that doesn't work either, you can be sure the orange oil polish did not cause what you're seeing. Please give me the name of the product and I can look up the MSDS (or you can), just to make sure.....

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QUESTION: Thanks for the fast response.
Actually, I'm pretty certain that it was the orange oil and/or it's reaction with the metal polish I had previously used to clean up the metal surface.    The product that I used is called "Orange Glo Wood Cleaner and Polish".
I called Church & Dwight. They gave me a list of ingredients (mostly oils and petroleum derivatives) and said that the MSDS suggests using warm soapy water to remove the product. Probably the first thing I should have tried!
I'll give it a try and let you know what happens.
Thanks very much for your help.

ANSWER: I would hesitate to use water on any antique metal or wood furniture....hence the reason I suggested mineral spirits. Water can start the oxidation process on metal, (rust), even if you try to wipe it off well.....also not good for the wood surrounding it (if there is any). Any metal polish would have likely had the same chemical base, (petroleum derivatives) and again, not likely to react with the Orange Glo. The Orange Glo will have removed any residue from the metal polish almost certainly. What you're describing really sounds like the natural patina (again, dirt, grime, wax, hand oils from being touched) that builds up on these surfaces over time.....and it does, especially how you describe using your fingernail to remove it. That is the consistency and hardness of this type of build up. The polish and Orange Glo probably has made this natural build up more noticeable, by removing the gloss of previous waxings, and polishing, and now that you're looking for it...it is much more noticeable. I would still try the mineral spirits first, possibly with a white ScotchBrite pad, but protect any wooden surfaces, as the mineral spirits will remove any wax and likely some of the patina there too.....regards and let me know how you make out- Greg

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QUESTION: I tried mineral spirits with no success. What did work is Flitz Metal Polish and an electric toothbrush. It took a lot of patience and I had to sacrifice a brush head, but I was able to get all of the crusty gunk off.
Thanks again for your help.

Answer
The Flitz will polish the metal too though, as it is a super fine polishing abrasive....I'm sure its clean now, but that's not necessarily what's desirable on an Antique, I'm just wondering.......next time also try GooGone...that's the go to stuff if mineral spirits doesn't work....

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Greg Scholl

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Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects, Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings, wood species recognition and usage,tool recommendations, blade types and recommendation,techniques and methods for many Woodworking related issues, etc.

Experience

Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.) Sold, built, serviced, setup Home, Industrial, and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools , provided knowledge, parts replacement, service, and on site service, Trade show Demo, and training as well.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how")

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars from major Tool manufacturers, Skil/Bosch, Delta, Powermatic, Ritter, Porter cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt/B&Decker, Performax.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT. (the Antiques capital of CT.), Golden Age of Trucking Museum, Wilton Historical Society.

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